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Wiring protoboards

This looks like an easy way to hook things up on a protoboard:

Using 0.3 mm insulated copper wire. I solder to the wire tips at approx. 400 degree Celsius first (that burns the insulation) and at 310 degree Celsius finally.

Not to fast though – needs some patience…

A way to wire prototype boards

Check out the Flickr photo page for some notes and suggestions for some other kinds of wire as well.

Brian Jepson

I’m a tinkerer and finally reached the point where I fix more things than I break. When I’m not tinkering, I’m probably editing a book for Maker Media.


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Comments

  1. Anonymous says:

    I’ve been using wire wrap wire for point-to-point connections for 20 years.

  2. Josh Kopel says:

    Yeah to bad the industry stopped using it. It was a bit expensive, but really quick and flexible (at least for through-hole sized stuff).

    I still use the wrap wire sometimes and just solder through the insulation.

  3. Anonymous says:

    “I’ve been using wire wrap wire for point-to-point connections for 20 years.”

    Let me clarify: I used wire-wrap wire by wire wrapping on a lot of complicated boards. But I stopped doing that long ago.

    Now I use 30-gauge wire wrap wire for point-to-point soldering. Much like the image above.

    I cut the wire to length, then strip 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch off the ends and solder to the board much like that photo.

    Having 4 to 8 different colors makes it easy to trace the wires for checking or changes. The wire-wrap wire’s insulation is better than the enamel magnet wire.

  4. Simon says:

    I do this too. I think there is special wire you can get for this where the insulation is designed to be burnt off in this way. I can’t for the life of me remember what it is called though (the fumes must affect memory). It also looks to be more of a red colour though than the copper/gold of the wire shown here.

  5. Robin Debreuil says:

    I’ve been experimenting recently with ‘sewing’ the circuit with magnetic wire, and then stripping the holes, soldering, an clipping the places that don’t connect.

    The stripping is the key part here I think. Originally I used a guitar ‘D’ string — it is wound, so just pulling it through the hole with the wires works pretty good. I tried putting it in a dremel, but it is not wound the right way. Next I tried just using thicker braided wire in the dremel and that worked quite well.

    For layout, I find if you put most wires to cut on the bottom, and uncut on the top it is much simpler. Sticking the wire end on a needle (glue, or maybe solder) will obviously help too : ).

    You can also add many wires to single ‘pegs’ which helps with routing. I originally used a male connector pin (that can even be removed and reused after you are done, as it is just for holding things in place). I also found if you solder in the female version of those, and then yank the plastic part off you get a nice ‘Y’ shaped holder that you can add wire too.

    The wire stripping would probably go better with a little high temp probe that you can stick in the holes. Physical stripping is about 95% for me now, so yeah, that 5% is a pain : ).

    What is really needed is a compiler that will take circuit files and make the stitching/clipping pattern : ). Maybe a todo project.

  6. Gareth Branwyn says:

    Glad you blogged his, Brian. I saw this recently, started to blog it, and got distracted.

  7. japroach says:

    Simon: the color may indicate a different temperature rating. But I don’t think it is very consistent.

    One site says:
    Red – 155C
    Gold/brown – 200C

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