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This is a simple kludge, really, but it’s worked out remarkably well, considering I knocked it together in about 40 minutes 5 years ago and it’s seen almost monthly use since then. What I started with was a pile of junk grill and smoker components, most of which came from a Brinkmann “Gourmet” smoker (as shown below) that my mother once accidentally set on fire. Lots of electric smokers have this three-part lid/body/base construction, however, and the exact make and model are not important.

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Tools

  • Hand drill
  • 3/8″ bit
  • Handheld jigsaw
  • Tin snips
  • Rubber mallet
  • Screwdriver
  • Chalk or permanent marker

Materials

  • Electric smoker lid (A)
  • Electric smoker body (B)
  • Electric smoker base (C)
  • Extra lid to fit C (D)
  • 4″ Corrugated aluminum dryer vent hose, about 72″ long (E)
  • Sun-dried tomatoes (F)
  • Garden cart to house all of the above (optional) (G)
  • 2 x hose clamps to fit around E (not labeled)
  • 2 x 4″ duct start collars to fit E (not labeled)

Step 1: Cut duct holes

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4″ diameter circular holes are required in the extra lid (D) and the smoker body (B). Locate them by positioning the base of a start collar on the surface and tracing around it with a piece of chalk. The exact positioning of the lid hole is not very important, but the hole in the smoker body needs to go as close to the bottom edge as possible. Once you’ve traced two circles, drill a 3/8″ hole well inside the perimeter of each. It may be easier to step drill, starting with a small (say 3/16″) bit and working up to 3/8″ in one or two steps. The hole does not have to be clean, as it’s going to be in the waste section, anyway.

Now insert the jigsaw blade in each of the holes you just drilled and cut out the 4″ circular openings you’d previously traced. This is liable to be very loud, so be sure you’re protecting your ears as well as your eyes, fingers, and hands. If the cut edge comes out very rough you might take a minute to smooth it out with a file.


Step 2: Install start collars

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This is the start collar that connects the duct to the smoke generating and receiving vessels. It is not the exact same model I used, but functionally it is identical. Installation is straightforward: Insert the tabbed end of the collar from the outside of the hole until the flange butts up tight against the exterior surface of the vessel. Then, from inside, bend the tabs over all the way around the perimeter of the collar as far as they will go. I was able to do the bending with my fingers, no problem.

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Here’s what the collar mounting looks like from the inside after, um, about 5 years of use. It ain’t pretty, but you can see how it all goes together and that it’s held up well.


Step 3: Attach ducts

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Put the loose hose clamp around the end of the duct, then put both the duct and the clamp over the protruding section of the start collar. Seat the duct as far down around the collar as you can, then tighten the hose clamp around it with a screwdriver. Don’t overtighten or you risk tearing the duct, which is pretty thin aluminum. Attach one end to the lid (D) and the other to the smoker body (B).


Step 4: Light ‘er up!

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So far we’ve only smoked three things in this rig: salmon, cheese, and sun-dried tomatoes. The salmon was good, and the cheese was better, but the sun-dried tomatoes are unbelievable. They taste like bacon! We start with vacuum-packed sun-dried tomatoes and smoke them for about four hours over mesquite chunks that’ve been soaked in water overnight. I try to keep the smoke temperature, at the food, at about 150F.


Notes and ideas

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All we’re really doing here is putting a bit of extra distance between the fire and the food to give the smoke time to cool down before it does any cooking. There’s a bit of an art to maintaining a steady temperature; it’s easy to get things hot and not so easy to cool them back down, but it’s not as if the system is terribly complex. If your smoke is consistently hotter than you like, splice in a longer duct and/or try cooling the duct while the smoker is in operation with moving air or even water. It would be straightforward to knock together a digital temperature controller for the thing, at least from the electronics end.