Find all your DIY electronics in the MakerShed. 3D Printing, Kits, Arduino, Raspberry Pi, Books & more!

CZ_National_Sewing_Month.gif
Emmy_Bow_Tie_Pocket_Square_Red_Carpet.jpg
By Haley Pierson-Cox
Black tie is all about the details. Once you’ve gotten the tux and shoes sorted out, if you’re really planning to get your dapper on, you’d better make darn sure that your bow tie and pocket square are up to snuff. So, when my husband Jeremy was nominated for an Emmy this year, he asked me to make just one thing: a custom fixed-size bow tie to go with the hand-sewn pocket square that I made for him last year.
Before I got started, I wanted to make sure that I understood the ins and outs of bow tie etiquette, so I read up on bow tie history, shapes and proper fitting on The Black Tie Guide. There, I learned the key to making a good bow tie: no matter if you’re wearing a pre-tied, self-tie, fixed size, or adjustable tie, the bow must be proportional to the face of the person wearing it. This information is so important that it bears repeating: if your bow is too large, you’ll look like you’re playing dress-up in your dad’s suit; if it’s too small, you’ll look like you stole your little brother’s Sunday school outfit. Neither of these are a good look. Jeremy isn’t a large man, so I went with a modern, yet traditional bow style, and settled on the classic semi-butterfly shape (also known as the modern butterfly or the thistle). To make it easier for you to get the right sized bow, I included patterns for both standard and small (adult) bow sizes in the PDF below. Small would also work for bow tie-loving ladies!
After you make the bow tie, don’t forget to scroll down to the hand-sewn pocket square instructions to finish off your look!

Bow Tie

Emmy_Bow_Tie_Finished1.jpg

Materials

1/2 yard of black satin fabric, or any fabric you’d like, if it’s not a black tie occasion
1/2 yard of lightweight fusible interfacing
Bow tie pattern
, download the PDF below
Fabric scissors
Iron
Pins
Black thread
Sewing machine
Chopstick
Tailor’s chalk

Download PDF Download the Pattern PDF
Right click to save the PDF to your desktop. Directions on downloading PDFs.

Prepare the pattern

Print out the bow tie pattern (link to the bow tie pattern PDF above) and cut out the bow and the neck band pieces. The size of the bow in the bow tie should be in proportion to the size of the face of the person wearing it, so I included two adult pattern sizes: standard and small. A 1/4″ seam allowance is included on each pattern.
To size your pattern, measure around the collar of a well-fitting shirt, and divide that number by two. Cut the neck band to size using the number you just calculated as the length. Tape the neck band piece to the bow to create your personalized pattern.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_1a.jpg
Emmy_Bow_Tie_1b.jpg
Step 1: Fold the fabric in half with right sides facing, and cut the pattern out twice, creating 4 total fabric pieces. Also cut 4 pieces of interfacing.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_2.jpg
Step 2: With an iron, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each piece of fabric.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_3.jpg
Step 3: With right sides facing (interfacing facing out), pin two bow tie pieces together, repeating the process for the remaining set.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_4a.jpg
Step 4: With a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew around the edges of each set, leaving the ends of the neck straps open. Once the pieces are sewn, trim the extra fabric around the edges, close to the seam.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_5a.jpg
Emmy_Bow_Tie_5b.jpg
Step 5: Carefully turn each side of the bow tie right-side out through the opening in the neck strap. The neck strap hole is small, so this step can take a little while. Use a chopstick to turn out the corners of the bow tie when you’re finished.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_6.jpg
Step 6: Press each side of the bow tie flat.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_7.jpg
Step 7: Mark the 1/4″ seam allowance at the end of each side of the bow tie with tailor’s chalk, and snip off the corners with fabric scissors.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_8a.jpg
Emmy_Bow_Tie_8b.jpg
Step 8: At the mark you made in step 7, fold the fabric on the open end of the neck strap on one half of the bow tie towards the inside, then press the crease. Insert the end of the neck strap from the second bow tie half into the first, lining up the seam allowance mark with the edge of the fold.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_9a.jpg
Emmy_Bow_Tie_9b.jpg
Step 9: Sew a straight line along the fold, connecting the two sides of the bow tie, then press flat to finish.
Emmy_Bow_Tie_Finished2.jpg
If you don’t know how to tie a bow tie, I found this YouTube video from the Columbia Metropolitan Convention & Visitors Bureau to be extremely helpful.

Hand-Sewn Pocket Square

Emmy_Pocket_Square_Finished1.jpg
Pocket squares are traditionally made of linen or silk and have a hand-sewn rolled hem. There are many different ways to fold a pocket square, but I always stick with the flat fold – it’s the easiest to master and my hand stitching will stay visible!

Materials

1/4 yard of white linen, silk can also be used
Iron
Ruler
Tailor’s chalk or fabric pen
Rotary cutter or fabric scissors
Hand sewing needle
White thread

Step 1: Square the grain and iron the linen. Generally this goes without saying, but it’s particularly important when using sheer fabric.
Emmy_Pocket_Square_2.jpg
Step 2: Measure, mark, and cut a 12″ x 12″ square.
Emmy_Pocket_Square_3.jpg
Emmy_Pocket_Square_4.jpg
Emmy_Pocket_Square_5.jpg
Step 3: Create a rolled hem around the edges of the square: Start to roll the fabric over, inserting the needle under the roll, through the back of the square. Pull the needle and thread all the way through to the front, then sew a small straight stitch over the rolled fabric across the front, pulling the needle and thread through the back of the pocket square to finish the stitch. The stitches should be small enough to fit 8 to 10 stitches per inch.
Emmy_Pocket_Square_6.jpg
Where rolled hems are concerned, it’s much easier to show than tell. Check out the diagram above to see the progression of the stitches.
Emmy_Pocket_Square_Finished2.jpg
Step 4: Continue to roll and stitch around the perimeter of the square. When you reach a corner, twist the two sides together and continue stitching per normal. Depending on how well the fabric cooperates, you may need to improvise a stitch under the fabric in the corners to maintain the right shape. When you’re finished, press the square, taking care not to flatten the hem.
You’re done. Now, get out there and party like you’re Don Draper!
About the Author
Haley.jpg
Haley Pierson-Cox is a Brooklyn-based craft writer who loves granny glasses and loathes extraneous apostrophes. She blogs about crafts, cats, domestic bliss, and DIY goodness at The Zen of Making.


Related

Comments

  1. Kim says:

    Do you know how many bowties I could make with a yard of fabric that is about 27″ wide? I love your instructions they are the best ones I could find online!

  2. john says:

    what type of facing/interweiving did you use??

  3. Alexis says:

    This is really well written and explained, thank you!
    How would you make a pocket square with a different colored edge?

  4. Kailah says:

    This is by far the best online diy self tie bow tie pattern I’ve seen! Thanks so much!!

  5. jinglinbaby says:

    What tool or method did you use to turn the fabric inside out? It is taking forever…perhaps you have a special tip you could share? Thank you!

  6. For turning out, use a crochet hook or knitting needle…works a treat! Fantastic tutorial, that’s the Hogmanay gifts for the chaps sorted!

  7. Vicki says:

    I’m on the Gold Coast in Australia and found your information and pattern terrific – thank you. I’m making the bow tie for my son’s school formal in April. You’ve saved me money and a great deal of trouble trying to find a pattern. Vicki

  8. Paul Cerro says:

    Im confused with step number five. I don’t know how your sewing the two ends together

  9. Joan says:

    None of the images or links (to the pattern) are working–I’d love to be able to see images for each step!

  10. Caroline says:

    I was so happy to find your bowtie pattern. My son was one of very few “regular” people to be invited to the coronation of King Willem-Alexander of the Netherlands (that’s where we live). I couldn’t find a matching bowtie to go with his jacket so I decided to make my own. Your instructions were clear and he was very happy with the result…so was I! Thank you!
    The instructions for tying the bowtie were also very helpful.

    1. Diana Kimball says:

      Hello Caroline, I’m wondering whether my son may know your son? My son was studying German in Hamburg last June 2013. He mentioned a friend he met in Hamburg who returned to Sweden for the royal wedding. Apparently this young man is a hunting companion to the royal. Might this be your son?