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Last week, Jarod gave us some ideas of what to do with stale bread. This week he’ll be explaining how to turn old or undrinkable wine into a mother of vinegar, and then how to make vinegar from the mother.
About a month ago, I was fortunate enough to attend a dinner party given by Jarod. My boyfriend and I brought a bottle of wine to share, but were disappointed when it was found to be “corked” — a term given to unopened wine that has that vinegary, wet-dog-musty-cave taste associated with the presence of 2,4,6 Trichloroanisole. (While the cork is often thought to be culpable, other variables such as the barrel and storage conditions can also be the cause.) Jarod didn’t miss a beat, he grabbed the wine, added a splash of vinegar, put the cork back in and placed the bottle atop his fridge saying, “No problem, I’ll make it into mother of vinegar.”
“Mother of vinegar?” we asked, wide-eyed. “What’s that?” Mother of vinegar (MOV or Mother for shorthand purposes) is essentially a fermenting bacteria culture used to make vinegar — an acetobacter that develops in fermenting alcohol and converts the ethanol into acetic acid (what gives vinegar its sour taste) in the presence of oxygen. Fermenting bacteria can be found in other food products like kombucha, sourdough, and, well, in vinegar. 


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MATERIALS AND TOOLS
Your old wine, 16oz or so for the Mother, and more when you make your vinegar
Vinegar, just a splash
Iodine, for sterilization
Storage vessel, such as ice tea container
Sterilized containers, for bottling your vinegar
Cheesecloth & rubber band
Ripe fruit, to feed your Mother
Optional: fine sieve, funnel, fruit juice
Make Your Mother
To make an MOV, take your corked or leftover wine (red is most common, but you can use white), and add a splash (tablespoon) of red wine or apple cider vinegar. Re-cork the bottle and put it somewhere dark and warm to encourage the bacteria to attack residual sugar in the wine and start the fermentation process. Temperature is not entirely crucial, but a good rule of thumb is: if you are comfortable, the MOV will be too. You want to ensure that light does not hit the bottle, as this will slow fermentation. This takes about 2 months. Be sure to leave the bottle totally undisturbed, so don’t move or check on it during fermentation or the process won’t work.
Note: If for some reason it doesn’t work, or if you just don’t want to wait 2 months for maturity, you can buy MOV in a tub from a wine supply store.
Slowly pour the contents of the bottle into bowl. Mother, when she is ready, is not very pretty. It should have bacteria strands in it, and be a bit gloppy. There will also be some vinegar here that you can filter out with a fine sieve or coffee filter into another bowl to transfer to bottle. But don’t throw any sludge away, this is your starter, your Mother. While not particularly appetizing, it is not harmful; just a bacteria chain hungry for your leftovers.
Make More Vinegar
Now that you have your MOV, you’ll want to feed it to make regular vinegar. Transfer your culture to a storable container with a wide mouth, like a crock. Another good vessel to use is a glass beverage container with a spigot, like for iced tea. Stainless steel is OK to use, but tin and aluminum are not; plastics are not encouraged. In the container, combine with your MOV some fruits that might be on the way out — berries, apples, pears and pit fruits are all good choices, even tomatoes. Whatever you add will contribute to the overall flavor, so be mindful that while a banana will make the entire batch bannanariffic and somewhat overwhelming, an overripe mango might be more your speed. Now add enough liquid (an inexpensive bottle of wine, or the dregs of the half finished glasses of wine you’ve been saving in your refrigerator) to cover the fruit you’ve given Mother. You can also use fresh fruit juices in addition to the wine. Store bought bottle juice is not a good idea as it has preservatives that inhibit fermentation.
Be sure the container is covered but can breathe (one idea is to securely replace the lid with cheesecloth), and put the mix in a warm dark place once again, checking on it every week. Continue to add liquid as needed. A bit of scum will form on top as the process continues. Just scrape it off before you add more to the mix. Again, this is not harmful, it’s just the bacteria creating it’s own perfect environment.
Note: When you add liquid, your vinegar will be diluted until the bacteria can catch back up, so if you’re in the mood for the sharp stuff, you’ll have to give the mix some time. I recommend tasting at 6 weeks and going from there.
Your Vinegar
Once the vinegar is to your liking, pour from the spigot and bottle it in small, sterilized, airtight vessels. Or if your container has spigot envy, just ladle and strain, then bottle. If you don’t want the sediment, filter again with a fine sieve or coffee filter. If you wish to pasteurize the vinegar (render the acetobacter inactive), you can heat it at 150˚F for a half hour in a clean pot — then you don’t have to worry about an airtight container. You can also add fresh herbs to the bottles if you like. This will not only make your vinegar look pretty, but infuse it with the yummy herb flavor.
Your Mother will continue to work and grow as you add to it. At some point you’ll have more mother than room for vinegar. Here’s the rub: you can share! Scrape some into a container and give some to your friends. This provides you the room needed to begin another batch and helps your friends with their own mother of vinegar.
Learn more about home-fermented starters in the pages of CRAFT:
CRAFT 01: Hard Cider, page 143
CRAFT 02: Kombucha Madness, page 101
CRAFT 03: One-Week Wine, page 102
CRAFT 04: Get a Rise Out of Sourdough, page 118
CRAFT 06: Fig Wine, page 111
CRAFT 06: Natto Beans, page 114
CRAFT 09: Red Wine Vinegar, page 111
How-To Make Homemade Gingerale
About the Author
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Jarod Hermann is a recovering Chef living in San Francisco. He is now open about his food preferences and liberally applies them to his friends and family. He also plays musical instruments.


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Comments

  1. speshalkay says:

    I’m starting a Mother today! Not sure it’ll work as I am using homemade slightly fizzy elderberry wine and I added a bit of white wine vinegar. Hey ho!

  2. Jena says:

    I really want to do this, but I’m confused about the iodine–where in the process does that come into play?

  3. Hey Jena! Sorry for not being more clear. The iodine is to sanitize your equipment immediately before you use it. Don’t use soap or fouled sponges. Instead, use a water-iodine solution, then rinse with boiling water.

    1. muse2323 says:

      thanks!

  4. Nancy Weis says:

    Can’t I just add some MOV to the wine and let it ferment?

  5. Katie Custer says:

    Do you need to cut up the larger fruits like apples? Can the cores and pits go in as well? Thank you!

  6. katiewalkerwilson says:

    Hey Nancy! Yes, you can purchase MOV and add it to the wine to create more MOV. But this tutorial is about actually creating the MOV from scratch.

    Katie, Yes, I would cut up larger fruit items to help them break down faster. And I’m sure others will have their own opinions about what is OK to add to the concoction, but I would core and pit fruits. From what I’ve read on other food blogs, apple seeds and stone fruit pits contain cyanogenic acids and glycosides and can be deadly in large quantities (we’re talking extremely large quantities). But I’m not an expert!

    Thanks for your comments!
    Katie

  7. Dan says:

    Will this work using commercial vinegar? I would assume that most vinegars you buy off the shelf have been pasteurized.

  8. Wow, fantastic ideas for using old wine. Vinegar is the most versatile acidic liquid and its benefits need to be passed on to everyone.

  9. Kristina Hanning says:

    I have a vinegar mother I’ve been using for a few years, and this batch came out with what looks like mold on top of the upper layer. Do I need to throw everything out and start again? I hate to do that because it was a fairly large batch, but obviously will, if it would make people sick. Could I at least use the vinegar and pitch the mother if I pasturize the vinegar?

    1. Hey Kristina! It’s normal for a bit of scum to form on top as the process continues. “Just scrape it off before you add more to the mix. Again, this is not harmful, it’s just the bacteria creating it’s own perfect environment.” If the mold has permeated down into the entire batch, then that’s a different story. I’ve not seen that before, but if the batch looks compromised, I would air on the side of being safe rather than sorry.

      1. Kristina Hanning says:

        Ok, thanks!

      2. Peter Blakeman says:

        I am making malt vinegar. The mother has risen and there is a white/beige Mould on top. The beer is unfiltered and aroma is clean. I suspect it is pedicoccus and wonder if it is still ok

        What do you think, I could send a photo.

  10. Hi Jarod! Thanks so much! My balsamic vinegar made its own Mother and I just poured the glob into a glass crock with older organic apples and pears from my local fruit stand waste bin and a bottle of Green Fin organic red wine ($3.99 at Trader Joes). I’ll let you know how it goes. :) Again, thank you! Some fun. Leena

  11. Jo says:

    Hello, was just looking up to see if I’d done the right thing and now I’m worried I’m going to poison everyone. I live in rural Italy and inherited 50 litres of (now 20 yr old) vinegar which I just delve into and add dregs to. Today I decided to chuck out the last 30 litres of some assorted home made wines from the Autumn and so I decanted the old vinegar into a different 50L demijohn and added all the already vinegary wine to the old mother. However I haven’t sterilised anything. I just gave it a swill out because there were probably old lizards and scorpions in it. I’m not going to kill us all am I? I have 4 kids and this is the vinegar I use to make all the tomato ketchup etc for the year so it would be best to know now!!!

  12. chris says:

    sorry but this is crap. Crap wine make crap vinegar. Use crap wine in cooking and you get crap food. Period end of story.

    there are a number of very good tratises on how to make vinegar and this aint one of them. Aceto bacteria turn ALCOHOL TO ACETIC ACID, all the rest of the wine goes with it. 12% wine gives 12 percent acid (not good).

    really now do a google search please

  13. John Fortunato says:

    I let my mother dry up if I add wine on top of it will it come back and make a fresh mother

  14. […] and producing gourmet vinegar by fermentation is something that can be done at home (see here, here, here, and here). It is important to remember that (unlike the bacteria producing yoghurt and […]

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