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CRAFT: Sew and Sew

By Nicole Vasbinder
You can make this dress in about an hour using elastic thread to create shirring (soft gathers), which adds shaping. Elastic thread is super easy to work with but does take a little practice to get right. Definitely practice on some scrap fabric to get the hang of it.

Materials

Fabric
Spool of elastic thread in either black or white
Spool of regular thread
Scissors
Pins
Iron
Sewing machine
Serger
(optional) to finish seam allowances

Directions

Step 1: First, figure out how long you want the dress to be and cut 2 lengths of fabric that length. Stitch them together along 1 side to make 1 big, wide piece of fabric that is your length and 88″ wide (for 45″-wide quilting cotton). Go ahead and finish this seam by either serging, pinking, or zigzagging. Now hem the top and bottom edges. You can do a rolled hem on a regular sewing machine, a rolled hem on a serger, or any sort of small hem you want. (You just don’t want to lose very much length.)
Elasticthread Step2
Step 2: Now on to the elastic thread! Elastic thread only comes in white or black, but that’s OK because you only use it in the bobbin, so you’ll never see it anyway. You have to hand-wind the elastic thread onto your bobbin and you want to wind it with a bit of tension. How tight you wind it will determine how much it gathers your fabric. So if you wind it really tight you’ll have really gathered or shirred fabric.
Elasticthread Step3Ab
Elasticthread Step3C
Step 3: Lengthen your stitch length to about 3mm and adjust your tension to 5 (but play around this a bit on your scrap). Load your bobbin and stitch some practice rows. The fabric should start gathering up as you stitch. If it’s not, then the thread either got wound too loose, your top tension is too loose, or your bobbin tension is too loose. If it gathers too much, then tension is too tight.
Elasticthread Step4
Step 4: When everything looks good, you are ready to move on to your dress. You want to stitch 2 to 3 parallel rows of shirring stitches across the top edge of your dress. Make the rows about 1/2″ apart and start them a 1/2″ from the top edge. It’s helpful to mark your rows on the fabric with tailor’s chalk or an air-soluble fabric marker.
Elasticthread Step5Ab
Step 5: Now hold the dress up to and figure out where your natural waist is. Now do 4-6 rows of gathered stitches at the waist that are each 1/2″ apart. Your dress should be fitted above and below the bust creating an hourglass shape.
Elasticthread Step6
Step 6: Finally, you are going to stitch the other side seam and finish the seam the same way you finished the first side seam. Voila! You’re done!
About the Author:
Author Nicole Vasbinder
Nicole Vasbinder has designed the accessory line Queen Puff Puff since 2003 and sells her retro-flavored handbags and accessories throughout the United States and beyond. Nicole also owns StitchCraft, a hip sewing and craft studio in Petaluma, Calif., and co-produces the popular Petaluma Downtown Craft Mart. As a sideline, she recently started making and selling journals made from recycled record albums under the label Vinyl Frontier.


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Comments

  1. Tia says:

    Love this dress.
    How much fabric should I use?
    Thanks Tia

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  3. Jess.Liageageque says:

    Thank you.

  4. Carmen Russell says:

    This is a very lovely dress,i am going to make one like it i hope it looks as lovely as yours,all the best to you and thanks for the instructions.

  5. apergytorMype says:

    Fate errori. Cerchiamo di discutere di questo.
    Penso che si sbagliano. Sono in grado di provarlo. Scrivere a me in PM, ti parla.
    Credo che sia – un grave errore.

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