Step #1: Getting StartedPrevNext
There is a bit of timber cutting to do, but as with most projects you'll tackle in timber, it's unavoidable. You can either make use of a mitre saw, if you're lucky enough to have one, or just go old school and use a handsaw.
We'll begin by cutting the two ledges; these are the two horizontal rails that the front uprights, or pickets, will be fixed to. It's a simple case of just cutting them square to the required length of 30 inches (762mm).
*When cutting any timber, first cut a square cut on one end and then work from this end; in all probability, the end will not be cut square to begin with.
Step #2: Cutting The PicketsPrevNext
That was simple enough and now we'll move on to cutting the pickets of the gate.
For the size of gate I'm going to make, we're going to need 7 of these, so first, cut these square to 36 inches (915mm) long.
Again, you can do this either with a hand saw or a chop saw.
Step #4: Putting The Picket Gate TogetherPrevNext
To put the gate together we're going to need a couple of additional tools and bits and bobs -we'll need the following tools:
To start, we're just going to fix the end two pickets to the ledges, rather than go flat out and fix every one of them.
The positions of the rails in the gate I'm making are; 6" or 150mm from the BOTTOM of the gate to the UNDERSIDE of the bottom rail and again 6" or 150mm from the TOP of the pointed pickets to the TOP of the top rail.
- cordless screwdriver with screwdriver bit (I'm using a Pozidrive) and 4mm
- drill bit
- tape measure/rule
- D4 timber glue
- 1 3/4" screws
Step #6: Positioning The PicketsPrevNext
Now, before we start attaching the rest of the pickets, we need to work out the gaps between each picket.
To do this, place all the pickets onto the ledge and push them tightly to one side of the gate; they want to be hard up to one of the first pickets we fixed.
Now measure the distance between the edge of the last loose picket and the picket that is fixed to the gate, on the opposite side of the gate to where the pickets are.
I've got a distance of 282mm, so as I have 5 uprights still to fix, I will have 6 spaces in total.
Divide 278mm by 6, which gives us 46.3mm; I'm rounding this down to 46mm.
What you'll need to do now is to cut a couple of pieces of timber to 47mm wide to use as spacers - if you're using more or less uprights, then the measurement of 46mm wide bears no relation to your gate; you will need to work the measurements out as I've done above and use these measurements instead - the number of gaps is always one more than the number of loose pickets.
Step #7: A Temporary FixPrevNext
To save marking each and every picket we're going to fix into the gate we'll do a little cheat; get a straight piece of timber and fix it to the bottom of the two pickets that are fixed to the ledges, just one screw in each will do for now as this is a temporary 'fix' and will be removed once the gate is finished.
This temporary timber will just enable us to line all the remaining pickets to the bottom of the gate.
Starting from one end of the gate, place the lose packers between the fixed picket and the still loose picket (sit the packers on the ledges), slide the picket down so it touches the temporary piece of timber that we've attached to the bottom of the gate.
Pre-drill the picket, apply glue under the picket and then securely screw this together. Repeat this for all remaining pickets and you're just about done.
Have a quick check for any glue that is running anywhere; if there is any, remove it with a damp cloth.
Step #9: We've Finished!PrevNext
This may not be the most robust gate in the world, but it's quick solution if you need a simple gate in a hurry for your garden or allotment and you don't fancy the thought of complicated woodworking joints.