Step #1: Building the FramePrevNext
- We mounted our drill pointing straight up, by sandwiching it between two 2' planks and then screwing 2 more 2' planks onto the ends, to make a stable H-shaped frame. To keep the drill from sliding, we also screwed a small wood block against its handle at the bottom. The drill sits snug in the frame, and it can be lifted out easily.
- CAUTION: Make sure the drill is tight in the H-shaped frame (in the side-to-side dimension). If not, it''ll be really hard to stop it rocking. You can try using thin wedge-shaped wooden shims to tighten it up, but it's far better to have a snug fit from the beginning.
- Then if the drill is still rocking in the end-to-end dimension, you can screw a small wood block in place to pin the handle down and prevent it from rocking upward.
- We locked the drill’s trigger in the On position, and then plugged the drill into a switched extension cord so we could turn it on and off remotely.
Step #2: Attaching the CanvasPrevNext
- To make an adapter for attaching the drill chuck to the canvas, we drilled a pilot hole through the center of a 30" plank and hammered in a 5/16" spike T-nut. We ran a 5/16" bolt through the nut and added a drop of Loctite to make it hold. To strengthen the drill’s grip on the bolt, we used a Dremel to shape it like a hexagonal drill bit.
- Then we drilled a wood screw through each end of the plank, to point up when the bolt points down. We screw the screws farther to attach them to a canvas frame and then flip the assembly over and clamp the bolt in the drill chuck.
- NOTE: Make sure the spinning board and canvas are exactly centered and level. Balancing the spinning mass is critical for safe operation.
Step #4: The ResultsPrevNext
- Giant spin art has been fun to do with friends. We usually spin 20" round canvases, but sometimes try larger ones. Our record size so far is 4'×3'. Surprisingly, just about every canvas comes out great.
- Bob and Pete Goldstein are brothers who rarely build anything based on their half-baked ideas.