Step #3: PrevNext
- Next you’ll drill the socket holes in the top. If you’re deviating from my configuration, space the holes to accommodate your bulbs and sockets; bulbs should clear each other by at least ¼" at their widest points.
- Drill the socket holes with a circle cutter about 1-7/16" diameter to clear the 1-3/8" diameter sockets. Grip the lamp top tightly and lower the bit slowly, for safety and clean appearance. Beware the circle cutter arm!
Step #4: PrevNext
- Make the socket mounting platform, following the diagram. I used an old scrap of 3/8"-thick painted board.
- Trace its shape onto the top block.
Step #5: PrevNext
- Bandsaw a slot in one end of the top block, and cut out the inside to your traced outline. You’ll fill the slot later.
- Check that the platform fits into the cutout. You should now have the parts shown here.
Step #6: PrevNext
- Position the top block and its top together, in the same way you cut them. Glue them together, using lots of clamps to ensure a virtually invisible joint. When the glue is dry, unclamp and sand.
- Chuck a ¼" rounding-over bit in your router and clamp it upside down in a vise, or use a router table. Round the outside edges and corners of both blocks, but not the surfaces that meet in the middle, which must stay flat.
- Glue a thin, slightly protruding wedge into the slot in the top block. Let the glue dry, then sand it flush.
Step #7: PrevNext
- On the bottom block, bandsaw a slot in the middle of one of the longer sides, and continue cutting a cavity to clear the switch and wiring in approximately the shape shown here. Ensure you have good surfaces to mount the switch plate.
- Drill a 7/32" hole in the middle of the side slot, then enlarge it to ¼". With a jigsaw and file, enlarge the hole to a 7/8"×¼" cutout to clear the switch toggle.
Step #9: PrevNext
- Drill a ¼" or 5/16" cord hole into the wiring cavity, missing the switch plate, as shown.
- Bandsaw 4 small slots in the switch mounting plate as shown.
- Fine-sand both blocks and finish with Deft clear wood finish, lightly sanding between coats.
Step #10: Assembly.PrevNext
- Mount the switch in the bottom block using 4 small wood screws from the inside, aligned with the slots you cut in the plate. Don’t allow the screw heads or switch plate to protrude from the block. (Alternately, if you don’t mind screw heads showing, you can mount the switch with 2 machine screws and nuts using its original mounting holes.)
- Set the socket mounting platform on the flat, top face of the bottom block. Remove the brackets (they’re known as hickeys) from the sockets as shown here and set the sockets on top of the platform. Drop the top block in place to help locate everything. Mount the platform with 2 diagonal screws.
- Locate the sockets’ positions on the platform and drill wire clearance holes so that wires can pass into the cutout without hitting the switch below. Pass the socket wires through the holes.
Step #13: PrevNext
- Add 2 thin strips of self-adhesive foam to the bottom as feet.
- Add 4 more strips around the top edge of the bottom block as a spacer.
Step #14: PrevNext
- Drop the top block onto the bottom one. It isn’t fastened in place, but the sockets and mounting platform will align it.
- Screw the bulbs in and you’re done!
Step #15: Resources for vintage-style bulbs.PrevNext