Television antennas are comprised of a series of metal rods cut to exact lengths and positioned so they receive a particular television frequency. The following design was invented in the 1960s by an engineer named Doyt Hoverman. It is particularly sensitive in the UHF frequency range, the same range used for the majority of digital television transmissions.
This coat hanger antenna isn’t a project of my making, I merely wanted to comment on it in this space. All credit goes to Make:television for posting the (attached) instruction PDF.
Watch John Park do this.
Hi, how are you! glad to read your comment. I want to build it too, but I don’t have matching transformer. could you please tell me which store to buy from. thank you.
my email is hua[email protected]
That’s a tough one… Try using all the same type of hanger, and maybe try a few different types of hanger to see which works best. Make sure there is good contact everywhere the metal should be connecting, and that the wires are insulated where they should not be connecting. The angles are very precise, and in my model I’m always surprised how little motions can destroy the reception. Let us know if you sort it out, and what you try!
One thing the transformer does is take the coaxial cable and split it into two wires. I don’t know if a transformer does things other than that. To mimic it, try using alligator clips, or soldering wires separately to the inner wire and the ‘shielding’. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_cable to get a good picture of the wires. Attach the shielding to one of the center connections, and the inner wire to the other. Let me know how it goes!
Basically the transformer converts 75 ohm to 300 ohm so you can use coax cable which is shielded. If you don’t use coax you have to keep the two wires apart and away from radio interference. This is very old school , like the old TV’s on roof tops in the 1950’s.
This provides more channels and better reception than any store-bought antenna I have tried. I mounted mine on a wall near the ceiling and facing the transmitters in my area. Rather than plugging it in directly to the t.v., I plugged it into the amplifier box from the RCA flat digital antenna which it replaced and which never worked that well.
Ok, I’m frustrated! Built this design to a t and I get nothing. Did I miss something?
Hi! I need to know more about the transformer. Also, where is the download link for the PDF file?
The transformer is the standard 75-300 ohm transformer for connecting a 75 ohm coax cable to the old 300 ohm flat wires like went to roof antennas. You can easily find them at probably any TV retailer or Radio Shack. Most older TVs usually included one in the accessory kit.
Actually, a much simpler and still very effective antenna for digital TV reception is a single round loop antenna that can be made out of a coat hanger or bailing wire, just like the old UHF antennas. The simple reason that it works is that most digital TV channels are broadcast on UHF frequencies. Connecting the loop antenna to the 75-300 ohm transformer on the end of a cable connected to the TV allows for more effective antenna placement.
Will 12 or 14 gauge insulated copper wire work in lieu of coat hangers? I would just need to remove the insulation in the spots noted in the diagram. Thanks!
The gauge doesn’t matter, as long as it stays rigid. Certainly, any insulation needs to be removed. But keep in mind that this is a lot of work to create an antenna designed in the 60s to work with analog VHF TV, which doesn’t exist anymore. Digital TV channels are mainly broadcast on UHF frequencies, so a 50 year old VHF antenna design is inappropriate.
I will tell you that I’ve been an A/V service technician for almost 40 years and what I have on my TVs are just wire loops (like UHF antennas) connected to a 75-300 balun transformer, connected by a 75 ohm coax cable to the antenna input to my digital TV tuner. Where I live near Denver, it works fine and it only took about five minutes to make.
OK. I did miss the part where they claim that this antenna is specifically designed for UHF frequencies, so it should work fine for digital channels. It should also be better than the loop antenna for weaker signal areas, if built properly.
construction of the antenna by marking a 3” x 20” board and plugging it in directly to the t.v., plugged it into the amplifier box from the RCA flat digital antenna which it replaced.
Just built this today and it works like a charm! I live in Colorado near the mountains and get a lot of interference but that wasn’t an issue for the antenna. Picks up almost twice as many channels as my Mohu Leaf and cost $13 to build. Got ABC, CBS, Fox, NBC, and CW, as well as countless other random channels. TTYL Comcast!
i have done this project but clarity is not their in the picture
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Hi my name is Domanick and i am doing a science project what does a TV transformer really
do?
Ok, I made and installed this over the weekend. I bought the transformer at Radio Shack in the mall for about $6. Whole project cost about $8 – I just moved into a new house that had an existing Dish Network dish on the roof. So I attached my antenna to it using pull ties. I live in Eastern LA county and faced the antenna at 285 degrees toward Mt. Wilson. After a few issues with the existing cable, I now have perfect reception. 60 plus channels. I tried it in the house and the reception was really poor so it has to go on the roof. I also bought a amplifier from Target to see if it would make a difference. After running a signal strength comparison through the digital/analog converter box this antenna works better without the amplifier. Now if I could only get Internet on the cheep too!!
I used copper wire – I had scrap from wiring my 1400sq ft shop. I put wire nuts on the end for safety. The base is attached with Kreg screws
I’ve made and re-made 5 versions of this antenna, the latest being made from cardboard and CAT 5 wire. It picks up channels 10x better than the one I went out and bought. Thank you for posting this great design.
CAT 5 Ethernet? And if so isn’t that insulated?
I haven’t made one yet but I have some Ethernet cable sitting around is it the same designs just instead of hangers you use Ethernet?
Thanks
Yes CAT 5 Ethernet and yes it is insulated, but I stripped where the wires make contact using a lighter. The design is identical in every way to the original. I just taped everything to a piece of cardboard.
So if you use insulated wire the insulation only needs to be stripped where the wires intersect? I thought maybe the insulation would impede gathering the frequencies as well on the wings of the “coat hanger” portion.
I only stripped where the wires meet. I haven’t noticed any signal lost and it preforms as well as my coat hanger version.
can some one please tell me if the wires on under the washer or over. made one with wires under but does not work. what kind of tv works best
So try it over the washer….
Wires go between the washer and the screw. The antenna will work on any tv.
Use brass screws.
When the FCC changed it over to Digital TV they divided the VHF channels into Low-V and High-V or 2 thru 6 and 7 thru 13.
They chopped off UHF 52 thru 69 but kept 14 thru 51.
Of course you can get the best reception if you cut your antenna element to match the frequency you are trying to receive. It’s not practical to cut an element for each channel so the bow tie dimensions are a best case compromise.
Also some stations transmit with a vertical antenna (vertical phase angle) and others transmit with a horizontal phase (horizontal phase angle).
You can sometimes get better reception if you orient your dipole elements at 45 degrees to the horizon to get both phase angles.
Sometimes you will have a station on the fringe of your reception area.
To get these you can build a separate di-pole cut to the exact frequency and pointed at the station.
This is the formula to calculate the element length:
300 divided by the station frequency equals the element length in meters.
divided by 4
For example channel 14
300/473 mhz = 0.634249 meters
.634249 X 39.25 inches = 24.89427
24.89427/4 = 6.223 inches
So to get top reception for channel 14 cut your di-pole elements to 6-1/4 inches.
Angle them in a 45 degree V (like this / ) and if you mount it high enough you should get channel 14 from 50 to 75 miles or more. You can get the channel frequencies off the FCC website.
I like to do this then show the picture on my tv to my neighbors and they can’t understand how I get it. Then I make one for them.
Try not to OD on Seinfeld !
1 meter equals 39.37 inches (not 39.25)
Use solid copper wire and solder everything.
That’s right. Mechanical connections (screws + washers) will not hold up. Solder all connections.
It’s not that easy to find electronic stores that handle solid copper wire and especially
bare wire which seems would be better than insulated.
James Smith,
Go to Home Depot and get a length of 12 ga Romex. That’s solid copper. Just remove the insulation and straighten it out. Cut 14″ pieces and bend them in half for the “bow ties”.
I would put all wires, bow ties and the running wires, under the washers as you see in the photographs. Wherever wires touch, they should be bare to get a good electrical connection – EXCEPT where the two running wires cross. I would wrap a bit of electricians plastic tape around one of the running wires at that point to keep them from touching one another. But any insulating material shoved between them will do – a plastic guitar pick, a piece of a playing card, a small wad of plastic wrap, etc.
The whole point of the washer is to insure a good ELECTRICAL connection between the antenna “legs” and the lead wire. If you’re not seeing any picture with the wire under the washer, it’s probably because the paint or film coating on the coat hanger wire is not removed, preventing that ‘metal-to-metal’ electrical connection from happening. Soldering the connections would be even better. ANY UHF or HD TV in range of a TV signal should work with this bow tie configuration.
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Wire coat hangers around here are getting critical, as in hard to find. Could you use something like 12 or 14 gauge electrical wire instead?
Also, how critical are the lengths of each piece of wire?
Last question, do you wrap the wire around the screw post or simply tuck it under the top and screw it down?
Thanks for the info.
Yes you can use 12 gauge solid copper wire 14 might be too small. Yes the length and the spacing of the wire are critical. Screw attachments 5 3/4 in and the V needs to be 3 inches between the wide end of the wire. You do not wrap the wire around the screws. Be sure the V wires and the up and down wire makes good contact under the screw. The copper wire is softer that the steel coat hanger. If the antenna falls over, or something hits it, the wires will bend easily and cause bad reception.
I made one of these antenna’s and it works great. I don’t have to adjust the rabbit ears or turn a dial any more. all the free channels come in perfect and my nerves are much better also. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge.
Quality stuff may be the key to invite the users to visit begin to see
the blog site that’s what this site provides.cable in my area
I made one of these a few years ago, from this template, and it still works great. Very inexpensive and simple to put together…
Nice informative video.
I made it with bailing wire, put the wire under the washers. I tried it on my tv, picked up over 50 channels. Time for Dish to go bye bye.
Wonder how important the horizontal spacing is between left and right set of anchor points (screws). The board used in the video seems to be stock, which would be nominal 1 X 4, making it actually 3 1/2 inches wide – not 3″. Coming 1/2″ from the edges would make for a 2 1/2″ separation. A 3″ board would result in a 2″ separation. Also, has anyone come across a multi direction version of this model?
Just found this. It’s not multi directional but sounds like it almost is.
https://makezine.com/2012/01/30/diy-fractal-antenna-for-digital-tv/
At the top of this page it says the board can be bigger. Because of that I would say the width isn’t that important.
Need some help on this one!
Could not find a single wire coat hanger anywhere so used the first roll of wire I could find which happened to be galvanized. Other than that I’m almost positive I did everything like I was supposed to and I can’t get it to work. If someone can help me troubleshoot this that would be amazing!!
Also keep in mind I know nothing about anything electrical so be gentle!
I don’t know for sure but pretty sure the galvanized won’t work too much resistance for current. If you have some copper wire or just steel wire it works best. Steel will hold it’s shape better but if used out doors will rust over time causing bad connections. Copper bends easy so holding it’s shape outside might cause problems. I would recommend using this type of antenna indoors, in the attic if you don’t want to see it.
No wire coat hangers?
Do you live with Mommie Dearest?
Something is wrong it does not work well
We do not get major channels-we only get NBC and lots of Chinese and Spanish. We are in San Gabriel, CA. What did we do wrong?
It looks like you didn’t insulate the two wires that cross each other. Also can’t tell for sure but it looks like you didn’t sand/scrape the 8″ V wires and the up and down wires where they touch. The wires need to be between the washer and the screw head. Contact with the board is best to be minimal or not at all. The wires where they make a X need to be insulated and all the V wires need to make good contact with the other wire under the screw. It also looks like the converter is touching one of the V wires which may cause bad reception. Hope this helps.
It is stated that this is a UHF antenna. Determine whether the signals you are not getting are UHF or VHF.
The bowtie antenna element is actually two antennas in one. As a result it is nearly omni directional.
From the flank it is a horizontal dipole and from the side it is an angled vertical polarization.
Aiming a single bowtie antenna at a 45 degree angle to the source should give you best reception because you get double efficiency of both a di-pole and a vertically polarized antenna.
With a little tweeking of the separation angles, length of the elements, and antenna direction it should give excellent reception without the use of a 300 to 75 ohm transformer.
Simply solder the co-ax center to one V and the shield to the other V.
Suggested is to use a mast that can be rotated from the ground for aiming purposes.
One pair of Vs, (a left and a right), should be plenty. 10 inches long works best for HDTV.
Raising the height of the pair of Vs will result in better reception verses adding more V elements.
Jarvis’s come back to Utah. We speak your language.
There talking about a transformer. Would this be the connecter? One other demo I seen they did not use this type of transformer.
I wrote a nice dissertation on this, but it went away when it made me register. I do not have time to do that again. The Popular Mechanics version specifically had the washers on top. They called for fender washers, which are big washers with small holes. Home Depot has them. Either way should work just fine if everything makes contact. The washer on top helps to control the wires a bit better. I used a multi-Meter to check, but there was no issues found. I would think this is not real important to do. Nobody calls for this. I would look for another issue. If you are using an old non-High Def TV, like I am, you will need a High def converter. My set up is in a cabin in upper Michigan. The flat screen TVs do last being left in sub zero temps.
what type matale is used for coat hangers which are need to build coat hanger antenna
Put the v shaped wires on the board first , this makes it more stable . It works better than a bought one . Great reception on all channels, it worked while still on the ground before I put it up to roof level .
I just made one of these and it pulled in 20 channels just sitting behind the TV. Next up I will mount it inside the attic at about 20ft higher and cut the cable.
Shades of “This is Spinal Tap!” In the “Parts/Tools” sidebar, it lists dimensions of 3’x20’x3/4′. If the board can be larger than those dimensions, I might be looking for a nearby billboard! ;)
As the reception is less than ideal in my locale, I will be trying this project soon! I am inclined to try the 3″x20″x3/4″ size first…
Has anyone tried building with just a flat board and copper/aluminum foil tape? Or maybe etch a huge pcb board?
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Amazing first time results! I have some minor hardware adjustments to make, but by hanging the antenna off the front porch sorta-kinda in the direction of the local towers I picked up 11 of the 14 available channels very nicely. We live in a bit of a valley and I was afraid line-of-sight would be a problem. I do have to raise the antenna because when a truck drives by I lose all signal! For all those having problems I would suggest going back and really paying attention to details. Measurements are important. Sanding the wire is important. Insulating the crossed wires with electrical tape is essential.
Thanks for the great video!
Now I understood everything thanks
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Does the wire connecting all the elements go under all the screws or just aligned next to them. I found the no. 6 screws I bought weren’t large enough to take the screw, washer, and wire.
Look i just took a metel rake and some cabel wire the coper is showing about 4 foot and wind it around and bottom end of the rake so that the faned out end is open push the wire down into the tight rake fingers and stickit up in the air out side and hoot to tv i got 18 channels u should always ask a red Look i just took a metel rake and some cabelthe coper is showing about 4 foot and wind it around and bottom end of the rake so that the fand out end is open push the wire down into the tight rake fingers and stickit up in the air out side and hook it to tv i got 18 channels u should always ask a red neck
I made the antenna and it works beautifully. Picked up a couple of extra channels over the performance of the $60 “black box” I bought that was such a disappointment. I think I’ve had it going for three weeks and have yet to see a pixillated picture. And it’s standing on the floor behind the TV. I could get another channel if it were on the top bookshelf but my wife doesn’t want it there. :(
Nice work! Can i use this for my television?
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Thanks for sharing how to do build this antenna, Just really curious though I noticed that during the “filming” of this project, 1st I notice that your screws were Phillips washer head screws type, then the next few frames your screws were slotted head pan screws with washers added. Why were there 2 different types of screws used in each of these antennas? Sorry, I notice everything
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