3D-Printed Eyeglasses

Scale the lens in your CAD program, using calipers or the width dimension stamped on your old frames. For example, 50-18-135 means 50mm lens width, 18mm distance between lenses (DBL), and 135mm temple length. (If you downloaded a lens model, you can skip this step.)

Offset the lens from your centerline exactly half the DBL (9mm in this example). Since glasses are symmetrical, you only have to model one half.

Orient the lens so that when mirrored it will have a consistent curvature around your face. Draw that curve along the top surface, extending to your centerline.

Offset your curvature line by the thickness of your lens, then offset each of those curves by 1.5mm–2mm to create the thickness of your frame.

Here’s the fun part: draw the outline of your frame using 2 curves, top and bottom. Make a swept surface for each of those curves, then project your lens curve onto each of them.

My lenses have a V-shaped edge; I created a corresponding groove in the frame. Match whatever lenses or models you’re using.

Connect and fill in your frame surfaces. For the nose bridge, draw 2 curves to split the inside surfaces, then drag control points on those curves to shape the bridge.

Draw the temple curves tangent to the frame, offset them, and use the frame edges as profile curves.

I did a simple extrusion and Boolean union, sized for a 2mm screw.

Now mirror your design to make a whole pair of glasses.

I’ve tried a variety of materials: Stratasys Vero materials have the best resolution, but natural PLA has better durability. Most services also offer an SLS nylon material; you may need to make some parts thicker, especially the hinges.

Finish your print to your liking by sanding or polishing. Then try pressing your lenses in. It was a very tight fit for me. (Optometrists warm the frames first, but I haven’t tried that yet.)

Screw in your temple arms and enjoy!