Make: Noise — Discuss this article

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• Template
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  I was making this and noticed that the template is a bit hard to read at times, so I went ahead and remade it in CAD and am going to attach the link for it.
  
  http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/highalpine/?action=view¤t=PlanViewPhinholePanorama.jpg

  Posted by HighAlpine on March 20, 2008 at 21:45:27 Pacific Time

• My 120 pinorama
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  I have just finished my pinorama.
  
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/scottmayson/sets/72157601067533734/detail/
  
  also
  
  http://www.f295.org/Pinholeforum/forum/Blah.pl/Blah.pl?m-1185854100/
  

  Posted by ScottMayson on August 02, 2007 at 20:15:13 Pacific Time

• Finished it!
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  Just wanted to post my results.
  
  
  
  
  <img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/152/411002483_e99dd6af66_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="8Banners' pinhole plate on Pin-O-Rama" />
  
  
  
  
  It took me a week off and on, but the end result is truly a great camera. I've had other pinhole cameras that took 6x12 images, but I was always bothered by the light fall off towards the sides. The curved filmplane of the Pin-O-Rama is the perfect solution to said problem!
  
  
  
  
  <img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/182/410982956_5a8fa87d26_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Latches on Pin-O-Rama" />
  
  
  
  
  
  One small modification I made to the camera was the addition of some small latches to either side of the camera. This allows me to remove the faceplate without having to unscrew it. I found the latches here. They're called Friction Catches and they cost about 87 cents a piece. They turned out to be very effective at holding the front on.
  
  
  
  
  Thanks again to Ross Orr for the great design and how-to! I'll be updating my Flickr gallery soon with more photos from the camera.

  Posted by Karl151k on March 04, 2007 at 22:25:59 Pacific Time

• More on the Pin-o-Rama
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  A few small clarifications and errata:
  
  Apologies again for the editing hiccup of calling 120-format film "120mm" throughout the article. I hope no one was confused by this; the actual width is around 63mm.
  
  The backing paper of 120 film has three rows of frame numbers, corresponding to different image formats. The row of numbers we use in this camera is the middle one, numbers running from 1 to 12.
  
  STEP 1e: Standard tripod thread is 1/4"dia. by 20 threads per inch (not #20).
  
  STEP 1g: Don't file flats on the #10 bolt; the film supply spool will just spin freely around it.
  
  STEP 2c: Note that film emulsion is very thin and fragile. So to avoid scratches, be very sure that all the parts of the gate that the film will rub against are emery-papered to perfect smoothness.
  
  STEP 4c: Sorry about the cut-off sentence. The pivot for the shutter will be about 2" or 2-1/2" to the side of the pinhole, and it will take some trial and error with paper templates to find a shape that fits.
  
  USE IT: I suggest Fuji films because their low reciprocity failure makes it easier to calculate exposures.
  
  When you open your 120 film, discard the paper band wrapped around the spool. If you're new to 120, you may find it helpful to tape the backing to the take-up spool; but generally you just slip the tab through the slot and wind a turn or two until you're sure the paper is attached snugly.
  
  MAKE THE VIEWFINDER (above): The side height is scaled from the film gate height, 2-1/4" (not the camera's height).
  
  Thanks for all the interest so far! I've got more sample photos from this camera posted on Flickr.

  Posted by RossOrr on February 28, 2007 at 06:12:01 Pacific Time

• Film Size
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  One small editing hiccup: The diagram on page 94 refers to "120mm" film. Actually, 120 isn't a measurement--it's one of Kodak's arbitrary film-size designations (others include 126 and 620).
  
  The film width is actually about 6cm. You'll often see 120-film cameras dubbed with their approximate film format dimensions in cm: 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x9, etc.

  Posted by RossOrr on February 19, 2007 at 11:37:16 Pacific Time

• Alternate pinhole designs
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  An optimum pinhole size calculator is here:
  http://www.photostuff.co.uk/pinholec.htm
  The curve of the film in this design is centered at the pinhole, but the hole lets in less light to the edges of the film. Imagine what the hole looks like from the edge: it is an ellipse. To compensate, the film should be closer to the pinhole at the edges than at the center.
  I made a large camera out of a gallon paint can. My pinhole is on the side, and my film is against the back wall, held by compression against stops glued in on the sides. I use 11X14 paper, cut in half to make 11X7. I also developed the paper in the same can.
  I am planning to make another with a soup can for 4X5 film.

  Posted by PutterMan on February 16, 2007 at 17:42:21 Pacific Time

• Alternate pinhole designs
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  You're right in principle, about the vignetting of light rays that pass through a pinhole obliquely; fortunately in real-world terms it's barely noticeable. And of course, the film would need to be a section of a sphere to cure the problem in both directions--not very practical.
  
  To minimize any vignetting, it does help to pierce your pinhole through the thinnest possible metal (e.g. by using the technique shown in the article).
  
  I'm sure your gallon camera shows that the larger the film format you use, the sharper the image you can get (if that's what you desire). But for folks without darkroom access, the 6x12 format on rollfilm is a pretty reasonable compromise.

  Posted by RossOrr on February 17, 2007 at 05:44:30 Pacific Time

• Where's the template
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  Am I an idiot or is the template mentioned in the magazine not here?

  Posted by spritle on February 16, 2007 at 10:52:54 Pacific Time

• Where's the template
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  Whoops, thanks for catching that! We've added the template above!

  Posted by terrie on February 16, 2007 at 17:08:32 Pacific Time