Vol. 20: The Autophenakistoscope
Motorize a 19th-century parlor novelty, and keep its frames synched to an LED strobe by using a sensor and an Arduino microcontroller.
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Sample disk image and templates (PDF)Design your own image discs (web app)
Instructions:
- Browse to the image file for each animation frame
- Click the upload/resize image button (images will be uploaded, thumbnailed, and displayed - sometimes the images look messed up at this point; do not worry if that happens)
- Scroll to the bottom of the page and click the "Create PDF" button.
It should then create and open a pdf of a disc suitable for mounting on your Autophenakistoscope.
Source codeTroubleshooting Guide
Rob Nance's CrocoChair disk (PDF)
Croco-Chair animated image
+ Video of Autophenakistoscope in Action:
+ Video of Autophenakistoscope in Action:
» MAKE: AMENDS Errata for This Article
Correction for page 106
In Step 3d, the red wire should be soldered to the short leg of the IR sensor and the black wire should be soldered to the long leg. Also, the + and signs were erroneously placed, as IR sensors do not have polarity.
» MAKE: NOISE — Discuss this article
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Every body remembers that humen's life seems to be very expensive, but people need money for different stuff and not every one earns big sums cash. Thus to receive some mortgage loans or consolidation loans would be a proper solution.Posted by CorinaLAWRENCE19 on August 19, 2011 at 19:44:58 Pacific Time
- IR sensor polarity
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Sorry, great article, but I think there is an error in the step 3d: I think that in IR sensors the long leg is the negative (-) and the short one is the positive (+). Am I right?Posted by Miguel Dimase on December 07, 2009 at 18:46:52 Pacific Time
- IR sensor polarity
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Yes, you are correct. Sorry about the mistake - it must have happened during one of the rewrites. Step 3d should read more like so:
"Solder the leads to the IR detector. Solder a red wire to the short leg (collector) and put a 10K resistor between the black wire and the long (emitter) leg. Also connect a green sensor wire between the emitter leg and the resistor. Seal with heat-shrink."
Thanks,
Dan Rasmussen
dan@retro-tronics.comPosted by sscanf on January 26, 2010 at 14:10:06 Pacific Time
- LED timing limits
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Ray, do you have a feeling for the timing limits of strobes made with this LED? Like, how short and how rectangular are can the light pulses be made?Posted by regneale on November 20, 2009 at 13:44:16 Pacific Time
- LED timing limits
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If you take a look at the code for the project you will find that the LED on-time varies with the rotational speed of the wheel (at least when it is in auto-sync mode). This done in an attempt to keep the image from smearing as the wheels rotational frequency increases. The visual result is, as the rotational speed gets very high, the brightness fades.
As I mentioned in the article, the brighter the LED you can find the better.
Thanks,
Dan Rasmussen
Posted by sscanf on November 20, 2009 at 16:26:45 Pacific Time
- LED??
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Have been buying the parts for this project and it has all been going pretty well until I got to the critical element of the high power LED. No part number is given. mouser.com doesn't seem to have one that specifially meets the spec given (30,000 mcd, white). Any suggestions for a source would be welcome.
Cheers,
RayPosted by CiceroneOrg on November 11, 2009 at 16:50:53 Pacific Time
- LED??
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Hi Ray,
I'm really glad to hear that people are building these. I think you will find it to be a lot of fun.
Yes, you are right on the LED - they are hard to find. I have a supply of these ultra-bright LED's that I have made available on my web site, Retro-Tronics.com.
I bought the original at U-Do-It Electronics in Needham, MA.
Please feel free to continue to ask questions here or contact me through the above web site if you have any questions.
Good luck,
Dan Rasmussen
Posted by sscanf on November 11, 2009 at 19:25:18 Pacific Time
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