» MAKE: NOISE — Discuss this article

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• Success! (modular version)
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  I've had my setup working for a few weeks now. Some superb fish and chicken have been the result...
  
  Following others' suggestions, I made my unit more modular, providing outlets for the pump and heaters, and a plug for the thermocouple.
  
  I used different types of plugs to avoid plugging the wrong thing into the wrong place (i.e., the heaters into the pump outlet, which would turn them on and possibly burn them out if they weren't already immersed in water).
  
  Pictures:
  on Flickr
  
  Partial parts list:
  
  
  
  • Lighted switch: Jameco 316128
  
  
  • Pump power receptacle(female NEMA): Jameco 1954640
  
  
  • Power plug and switch: Jameco 2095525
  
  
  • Fuse: 6.3A/250V, 5x20mm Slow-Blow Fuse: Radio Shack 270-1068
  
  
  • Heater power receptacle: Jameco 2114095
  
  
  • Heater plug (male): Digikey Q216-ND
  
  
  • Thermocouple receptacle: Radio Shack 274-246
  
  
  • Thermocouple plug: Radio Shack 274-858
  
  
  • Project box: Radio Shack
  
  
  • JLD612 Dual Display PID Temperature Controller: LightObject.com ETC-JLD612-A
  
  
  • 25A Solid State Relay SSR DC In AC Out: LightObject.com ESSR-25DAC
  
  
  • Dual row barrier strip: Radio Shack 274-670
  
  

  Posted by fblack on April 17, 2011 at 14:54:09 Pacific Time

• Outlets?
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  Has anyone modified this build to use outlets that the heaters would plug into? If so could you provide us with hints/tips or better yet directions?
  
  Thanks.

  Posted by J-sun on April 05, 2011 at 09:37:45 Pacific Time

• Outlets?
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  You could cut the end off a simple extension cord, the kind with 3 plugs on the end. The two leads from the extension cord would then hook up identically to how the 6 leads from the heaters would have connected (IE one to the neutral from the wall and one to your relay).

  Posted by itsdan on April 06, 2011 at 17:17:25 Pacific Time

• 
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  My PT100 came with red/blue/green instead of red/blue/yellow, I assume green replaces yellow but can anyone confirm?
  
  My temp readings seem to bounce around a little bit and I'm concerned I may have the wrong sensor. It may also just be the water mixing, or I'm wondering if the A/C power is too close to the sensor cable and throwing off bad readings. Anyone have experience here?

  Posted by itsdan on April 02, 2011 at 13:26:53 Pacific Time

• careful while testing
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  I found out the hard way that the immersion heaters do NOT like to be run without being immersed (go figure). I burned out all 3 on my first test.

  Posted by itsdan on March 31, 2011 at 17:19:56 Pacific Time

• careful while testing
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  If it makes you feel any better, I learned the same lesson during my first build. Even just a second out of water is enough to burn out the heaters.

  Posted by Seattle Food Geek on March 31, 2011 at 17:54:33 Pacific Time

• be careful of sureelectronics
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  I guess you roll the dice when you order this thing from sureelectronics.com.
  
  When I finally got mine, it was a FK02- M, the relay-only kind, not a VM. It's the same one that the author showed a pic of on his blog and explicitly said would NOT work for the project, the internal relay can't handle the load. Maybe it was an honest mistake, but since this is the only CD101 PID they list on their site, I'm guessing that for them all CD101's are created equal.
  
  I'm working with their customer support but so far I'm out 22 days shipping time and probably staring down another month waiting, assuming best case, that they'll drop-ship me a new one without insisting I ship back the old one. Not holding my breath on that one...

  Posted by JacobH on March 24, 2011 at 19:28:02 Pacific Time

• be careful of sureelectronics
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  turns out the FK02- M (at least mine) does indeed put out 12v across pins 5 and 6, so even if you don't get one with a V in the code, it might work.

  Posted by JacobH on March 27, 2011 at 20:01:39 Pacific Time

• Got wrong PID
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  I ordered the RKC CD101 PID off ebay from a vendor in Hong Kong, and received the RKC REX-C100. Its too much trouble to send it back so I am going to try to make it work as the specs are very similar. Does anyone have wiring for this model?

  Posted by DJStugots on March 21, 2011 at 16:23:21 Pacific Time

• 250VAC?
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  It's been a while since I've done this kind of project, so forgive me, but when I read about the CD101 at http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=421 it shows "Relay output: contact capacity 250V AC 3A". I thought it would be 120V AC.

  Posted by tdub on March 15, 2011 at 00:37:45 Pacific Time

• 250VAC?
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  The contact capacity is rated at a maximum. Meaning that's the maximum voltage and amperage it can handle.
  
  It can sill switch a 120v load at 3a or a 250v load at 1a.
  
  120v at 3a only provides for about 360w of power, which is less than the 6-900w draw of the immersion heaters. You'll still need an external relay.

  Posted by clivingston on March 22, 2011 at 17:03:19 Pacific Time

• plugging in the probe
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  Is anyone else confused about the statement at the end "Several people have modified this project so that the relay switches a power outlet that the heaters and pump plug into, and the probe plugs into an added jack."?
  
  By "probe" I think they mean the thermocouple, but what jack would that plug into?

  Posted by tdub on March 14, 2011 at 20:15:33 Pacific Time

• plugging in the probe
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  You can use any 3-conductor cable and plug for the theroresistor. I've seen versions where people have wired the PT100 leads into a stereo headphone jack.

  Posted by Seattle Food Geek on March 27, 2011 at 21:32:42 Pacific Time

• Wrong part number for acrylic storage container
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  The part number listed for a 4 x 4 x 7 storage container (amazon item #B000NE80GO)is actually for a 4.75 x 4.75x 5.25 in case. The correct number is B000NE9VJE.
  

  Posted by DJStugots on March 13, 2011 at 21:03:24 Pacific Time

• Wrong part number for acrylic storage container
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  That's right, DJStugots (confirmed by the author). Good catch! The correct Amazon part # for the acrylic box is B000NE9VJE.

  Posted by Laura Cochrane on March 17, 2011 at 15:15:52 Pacific Time

• SSR instead of SPDT relay
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  How do the pin assignments on the SPDT mini relay map onto the four connectors on a SSR relay? I can't quite figure it out.

  Posted by MrBelm on February 14, 2011 at 18:39:58 Pacific Time

• SSR instead of SPDT relay
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  The DC outputs from the PID go to the + and - terminals on the ssr. The 120v ac input is attached to either of the posts on the other side of the ssr, and the output to the heater is attached to the remaining pin.

  Posted by Seattle Food Geek on February 14, 2011 at 21:33:22 Pacific Time

• SSR instead of SPDT relay
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  So this diagram is correct? http://qandabe.com/2011/01/10/100-diy-cheese-vatsous-vide-circulating-bath/cheesevat/

  Posted by MrBelm on February 14, 2011 at 21:40:44 Pacific Time

• thermocouple K or PT100
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  what are the difference between thermocouple type K or PT100?
  regarding the PID controller CD101 it seems to work only whith type K

  Posted by jac1425 on January 28, 2011 at 07:09:47 Pacific Time

• thermocouple K or PT100
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  The difference is in the way they generate a signal to measure temperature. Wikipedia explains it better than I can, but the net-net is that the pt100 is more precise.
  
  Many controllers will be listed as "k" but that just refers to their factory default setting. Almost all will work with a pt100.

  Posted by Seattle Food Geek on January 28, 2011 at 07:56:03 Pacific Time

• Wrong PID Vendor
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  The article says sureelectronics.com; however, I was not able to find it there. When I searched Google for CD101 PID I got http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=421 I think this is what the author meant.

  Posted by StreckerCM on January 15, 2011 at 18:19:09 Pacific Time

• Wrong PID Vendor
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  FYI www.sure-electronics.com resolves to www.sureelectronics.net

  Posted by tdub on March 14, 2011 at 20:12:13 Pacific Time

• Wrong PID Vendor
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  Well I tried to order form them, but they are apparently out of stock. Any other good recommendation for where to get the correct PID. Would Fry's have something like this?

  Posted by StreckerCM on January 15, 2011 at 18:56:40 Pacific Time

• Wrong PID Vendor
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  I've had good luck with eBay. Search for "PID cotroller SSR". The important things to look for are 1) an SSR output, 2) the option to use a pt100 input, and 3) 120VAC operating voltage.

  Posted by Seattle Food Geek on January 16, 2011 at 11:31:46 Pacific Time

• Jld 612
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  Guys I have a JLD 612 PID and 25 A SSR. Can I use them for this project?

  Posted by PPBEAR on January 14, 2011 at 17:24:04 Pacific Time

• Jld 612
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  On the Author's website he says some people have used the JLD612 that is what I ordered too. It looks like you need to use an SSR for that unit. Check the comments for more information about using the JLD612
  
  http://seattlefoodgeek.com/2010/02/diy-sous-vide-heating-immersion-circulator-for-about-75/

  Posted by StreckerCM on January 16, 2011 at 11:17:30 Pacific Time

• Jld 612
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  Note that the relay suggested for this build will work when wired to the SSR output posts on most PID controllers.

  Posted by Seattle Food Geek on January 16, 2011 at 11:29:42 Pacific Time

• CD101 information
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  The manual that comes with this PID controller is lacking, so I created a wiki page that includes a link to the "other manual" as well as some undocumented features and known issues.
  
  http://mightyohm.com/wiki/resources:cd101

  Posted by p914 on January 12, 2011 at 11:20:53 Pacific Time