Step #1: Parts Check!PrevNext
- At the top of this guide, you will find a list of the supplied parts to build this kit.
- Make sure you have all of the required parts. If you are missing any parts, check under your chair!
Step #2: Insert the 2.1mm DC JackPrevNext
- Place the 2.1mm DC jack on the side of the circuit board with the white text and images.
- Make the jack snug with the circuit board by firmly pressing it down.
- Turn the circuit board over and solder the leads to the board.
Step #3: Insert the D1 DiodePrevNext
- On the circuit board at D1, you will notice one end of the image has a white strip.
- Insert the diode into D1 with the gray/white strip matched up with the white strip on the circuit board.
- Turn the board over, and solder the diode in.
Step #5: Insert the Ceramic CapacitorsPrevNext
- In positions C1, C5, C2, and C6, insert the small yellow capacitors.
- These ceramic capacitors are not polarized, so you can insert them either way.
- Secure these in the circuit board, turn the board over, and solder them in.
Step #6: Insert the 5V RegulatorPrevNext
- The 5V Regulator is an integral component of the kit. It takes the source voltage, and regulates it down to a healthy 5V.
- Insert the regulator as shown in the photo. The heat sink tab should be facing outward.
- Secure the component, turn the board over, and solder it in.
Step #7: Insert the 100uF CapacitorPrevNext
- The black 100uF, 6.3V, black capacitor should be inserted into the C4 spot.
- This capacitor is polarized, so orientation is important. Be sure that the lead near the white strip (-) on the capacitor is placed into the hole marked with the negative symbol (-), and the other (longer) lead is inserted into the hole marked with a plus (+).
Step #8: Insert the Green LEDPrevNext
- Whoops! I accidentally placed the red LED in place of the green LED. It's not that big of a deal!
- The green LED should be inserted at D2, while the red LED should be inserted at D3.
- The LEDs are polarized. Make sure to insert the longer lead (+) into the hole marked with the (+) sign, and the shorter lead (-) goes into the other available hole in the PCB.
Step #9: Insert the 1K resistor.PrevNext
- One of the 1K Resistors (Brown-Black-Red) should be placed into the hole marked R2.
- To save some space the resistor is soldered on in a "standing" position. Insert the resistor in a "standing" position as pictured. The body of the resistor will be by the area marked "R2".
- Secure the resistor, turn the circuit board over, and solder it in place. Next, clip the leads flush.
Step #10: Your First TestPrevNext
- Find a power source, such as a 9V DC wall adapter or a 9V battery, with a 2.1mm barrel jack.
- Plug the jack into the wall, and you should see your green LED light up.
- I have a red LED in place of a green LED, but if the LED lights up, then you are in good shape!
Step #11: Snip a 3-Pin Header.PrevNext
- The headers are the long strips of plastic with all the pins sticking out. These are used to insert the Boarduino in the breadboard.
- Take some clippers, and cut off a section of 3 pins.
- Insert this 3-pin header into the PWR-SEL holes, with the longer ends sticking up.
- These are tricky to solder. You might want to use some tape to hold it in place while soldering it.
- Next, place the included jumper so it's on the 'EXT' pair of pins.
Step #12: Insert the Ceramic Oscillator.PrevNext
- The ceramic oscillator should be placed in the holes marked X1.
- This component is not polarized, so it does not matter which direction you place it in on your circuit board.
- Turn the board over, and solder it in.
Step #13: Insert the Final ResistorsPrevNext
- The two other resistors should be inserted into spots R1 and R3. The resistor for R1 is the 10K resistor, colored brown-black-orange-gold. In R3 insert the remaining 1K resistor, which is the resistor colored brown-black-red-gold.
- Just as with the first resistor, place it in with the body of the resistor facing down toward the circles.
- Secure the resistors, turn the board over, and solder them in.
Step #14: Insert the Chip HolderPrevNext
- The IC holder should be placed on the board with the notched end facing the notched end of the silkscreened image on the circuit board.
- Turn the circuit board over, and carefully solder each joint. Be sure not to bridge any of the solder joints.
- If a bridge does occur, you can use some solder wick or a solder sucker to remove the solder from the circuit board.
Step #15: Insert the 6-Pin Header.PrevNext
- Cut a 6-Pin header section, and insert the shorter pins into the PCB from the front of the board.
- Turn the board over and solder the shorter pins from the back of the PCB.
Step #16: Insert the Push-Button Switch PrevNext
- The push-button switch can be inserted either way into the spot S1.
- The switch should fit pretty securely, so just turn the switch over and solder it in.
Step #17: Insert the 6-Pin ICSP HeaderPrevNext
- This is the header in the shape of a rectangle, with six pins.
- Insert it with the longer pins facing up, into the six holes next to the push-button switch.
- Turn the board over, and solder it in!
Step #18: Inserting the Final Headers (Part 1)PrevNext
- Snip 4 pieces of header pins; one 10-pin, one 8-pin, one 6-pin, and one 4-pin.
- Insert them into a solderless breadboard as shown in image 2.
- The longer leads should be placed in the breadboard! (Short leads up.)
- Now place the Boarduino on top of the headers, so that they all fit securely.
Step #19: Insert the Final Headers (Part 2)PrevNext
- Now you just need to solder each of the headers into place on the circuit board.
- You will be soldering from the top of the circuit board.
- Be careful not bridge any solder joints.
Step #20: Insert the IC.PrevNext
- It can be difficult to insert the IC. You will want to make sure the leads on the IC are straight, and not "flared" out.
- You can place the IC on a flat surface and gently bend the leads until they are straight, coming out of the IC at a 90-degree angle.
- All done! Try powering it up and upload some code.