The Luna Mod is an easy and fun instrument that will have you making great-sounding loops in no time. Rather than sampling input like a traditional loop station, the Luna Mod synthesizes its own sounds, and you play it using two knobs and one button.
I based the Luna Mod on the Wicks Looper, which I sell on Etsy, but it’s designed to be even simpler to build and play, without any complicated functions that would never get used. One knob controls the sound generated, the other controls the tempo of the loop, and the button writes the current sound into the ongoing loop. The variety of sounds you can get from these three controls is amazing.
You don’t need any special or expensive tools to build the Luna Mod, and it was designed for hackability. Its handy, built-in programming port lets you easily upload new firmware to the microcontroller chip, in order to change the sounds the instrument produces and which variables are tied to which controls.
Take a 26x16-hole piece of stripboard (use a sharp hacksaw as necessary to cut to size, then sand the edges smooth). The copper strips should run the long way.
Cut, strip, and solder 13 solid-core jumper wires between the following points on the board: (5,1 to 5,3), (5,15 to 5,16), (7,10 to 7,11), (7,13 to 7,15), (11,5 to 11,11), (13,5 to 13,7), (14,4 to 14,9), (16,8 to 16,14), (17,9 to 17,11), (19,10 to 19,12), (19,14 to 19,15), (21,9 to 21,14), and (22,8 to 22,13).
To identify holes on the board for placing components, I use grid references of the form (x,y), where (1,1) is the top left hole of the non-solder pad side, and the board’s long edge and copper strips run along the x-axis.
On the shorter jumpers you can remove all the insulation on the wires.
Turn a sharp 1/8" drill bit by hand to make breaks in the board’s copper traces at these points: (5,12), (8,3), (8,11), (8,13), (11,3), (14,11), (14,12), (14,13), (14,14), (16,3), (17,14), (17,16), (19,8), (20,12), (24,6), (24,10).
Remember to count the x-coordinate from right to left when the board’s copper side is facing you.
Solder the resistors onto the stripboard: 1kΩ (18,12 to 18,16) and (25,12 to 25,16); 10kΩ (2,12 to 2,16), (9,7 to 9,14), (10,3 to 10,13), and (21,3 to 21,7); and 22kΩ (3,12 to 7,12).
Trim the LED leads to ½" (14mm) to keep them long enough to poke up through the panel, but keep track of which legs are positive (anode, with the longer leg) and which are negative (cathode, shorter and marked by a flat part in the plastic).
Solder one LED with its (+) leg at (9,3) and (–) leg at (9,4), and the other with (+) at (18,3) and (–) at (18,4).
The on/off toggle switch legs are too wide to fit directly into the PCB holes, so use a 1/16" drill bit to extend the holes into small slots at (14,1), (14,2), and (14,3).
For the potentiometers, use the 5/16" bit to enlarge the holes at (1,6), (1,10), (26,6), and (26,10). Locate Pin 1 on each of the pots; it’s the rightmost pin as you face the pins with the pot shaft pointing up.
Fit the pots’ mounting tabs into the enlarged holes with Pin 1 of one at (4,9) and Pin 1 of the other at (23,7). Solder into place.
For the programming socket, cut 3 wires, ideally of different colors, about 3½" (or 9cm) long. Solder one end of each to (1,11), (1,12), and (1,13).
Remove the 1/8" stereo jack cover, slip it over the 3 wires, and solder the wires to the jack’s contacts for the plug’s sleeve (inner), ring (middle), and tip (end), respectively. Replace the cover.
Using a sash clamp or band clamp, glue and clamp the pieces together into a box shape, with the end pieces abutting the sides. Let dry.
Drill a hole in the bottom right rear corner of the enclosure for the audio jack. I used a 23/64" bit 20mm from the side and 8mm from the bottom, although anything in this general range will do. Countersink the hole slightly with a bigger drill bit.
Using wood clamps, glue and clamp the sides of the case centered onto the base piece. Let dry.
Using your completed circuit board as a template, drill the holes to fit in the control panel: ¼" for pots and LEDs, and 3/16" for the toggle switch. Also drill a 15/32" hole at lower left for the pushbutton.
Finish the wood by rubbing it with beeswax or polish. Now the box is ready for fitting the electronics.
Lift up the control panel and connect the Picaxe programming cable between the Luna Mod programming port and your computer.
Launch the Picaxe Programming Editor Software. Select File ⇒ Open, then select Luna_Mod.bas from the folder you downloaded it into.
With the Luna Mod connected to the computer, power it up using its on/off switch.
Press the computer’s F5 key to compile and load the Luna_Mod.bas program onto the Luna Mod. After the program has transferred, you should see a “Download was successful!” message box. Then disconnect the programming cable and refit the control panel.
Playing the Luna Mod is a matter of experimentation. Keep in mind that you can always create breaks in the sound by turning the Sound knob completely counterclockwise.
I had an enormous amount of fun learning how to play the Luna Mod because I’d never played an instrument like it before. I usually start with a basic rhythm that I set up by moving the Sound knob quickly clockwise while pressing the Write button. Then I add tones and blips by putting the Sound knob into various spots and quickly pressing the Write button once or twice. With this basic rhythm in place, you can let it repeat or keep adding and overwriting tones as desired.
Another trick for playing the device is to record a loop with the Tempo knob at its slowest speed, then increase the tempo for a fast, highly detailed loop.
When I set up the Luna Mod for recording, I usually connect it directly to my mixer/recorder. For a more refined sound, I sometimes plug it into a reverb pedal, then a delay pedal, then the mixer/recorder.
The Luna Mod program only uses 81 of the 256 bytes available on the Picaxe 08M’s onboard memory. So with the Luna Mod’s built-in programming port, you have lots of room to modify and hack the software to make new sounds and functions.