9-Watt MR16 LED Lamp

Here is the complete LED light kit. Now before starting this project you need to check all parts as in the photo. Check list as follows: 1 x PCB, 3 x LED’s, 1 x LED lens, 3 x small screws, 1 x Main heat-sink casing, 1 x Led driver, 1 x Lamp G.3 base. 1 x plastic LED O-Ring

WARNING: LEDs ARE STATIC-SENSITIVE, SO YOU MUST WEAR AN ANTI-STATIC WRIST STRAP BEFORE HANDLING LEDs.

You need to make sure that the LEDs are soldered the correct way on the PCB. If you look closely at the LED you will see that one end has a small hole. This is the positive end (+ ve ).

Now solder the LEDs to the PCB using your anti-static tweezers to pick up the LEDs.

WARNING: Make sure the LED is oriented the correct way before soldering to the PCB.

NOTE: Kit can be supplied with LEDs mounted on PCB and pre-tested if needed

Here’s the finished PCB with the LEDs soldered.

The small driver PCB is fitted inside the base casing. Once in, press down the board as far as it will go, so the pins are all the way through the bottom holes.

NOTE: Do not push down on the driver PCB too hard, otherwise it may break

Now we need to to use a small amount of glue to hold the driver in place so it does move around. I used a hot glue gun for this.

NOTE: You don’t need a lot of glue, just enough to hold the driver in place.

WARNING: Be very careful as the hot glue can burn you if you get it on your hands!

At this stage you need to pull the two wires through the centre hole of the heat-sink case, then line up the 3 mount posts on the plastic base with the screw hole on the heat-sink case. To do this, press the plastic base down and at the same time turn it until it’s flush against the bottom of the heat-sink case.

NOTE: Don’t pull the driver’s wires too hard through the hole, otherwise they will break off.

Now you will need to apply a small amount of the white heat-transfer paste to the PCB. This transfers the heat away from the LEDs to the heat-sink. Next, fit the board down inside the casing top then pull the wires through the hole of the PCB, but not too hard.

NOTE: Make sure the PCB is mounted flush with the casing.

Screw down the PCB with the screws that are provided with the kit. Use a small Phillips screwdriver. I used a screwdriver with a magnetic tip; this makes it much easier to pick up the screws.

NOTE: The screws hold down the PCB and the bottom base that has the driver in it.

DON’T over-tighten the screws, otherwise you will strip the base.

Solder the two wires to the PCB. The pink wire is + ve (positive) and the white wire is – ov (negative). Use small pliers to hold the wires when soldering them in place.

WARNING: Be very careful when soldering the wires that your soldering iron does not touch or get too close to the silicon lens head of the LED; otherwise the LED will be damaged.

Make sure you have no solder shorts on the PCB where you soldered the wires, as these pads are very small and easy to short out if you are not careful.

Now place the LED lens on top of the main casing. When doing this make sure that the three clear lenses sit over the LEDs correctly.

Now we need to fit the LED lens O-ring with the inside groove facing down.

The LED lens fits inside this groove.

The Plastic LED lens O-ring holds the lens in place. To fit just place it down over the lens then slowly press into place on main case until it is firmly in place. I used a very small flat screwdriver to click it into place. Again, be very careful.

WARNING: Don’t push too hard, otherwise the O-ring will break.

NOTE: The O-ring is designed to be a tight fit so be very careful when fitting it.

If you have reached this stage, then congratulations! You are just about finish this project; all you need to do now is power t up. Connect the lamp to a G5.3 connector, then connect this to a 12 VDC power supply or battery.

WARNING: These LEDs are super-bright, so make sure the lamp is pointing at a wall! DON’T LOOK AT THEM HEAD-ON WHEN THE POWER IS ON!

NOTE: For this lamp to operate reliably you should use a DC supply and not AC. The small LED driver that’s inside the lamp base has been designed to work on DC or AC voltage. But, bear in mind that some AC power supplies might not work at all, or may cause flickering.

If you have no light, check the following: 1. LED wrong way around; 2. LED driver wires wrong way around; 3. Power supply must be 12V.

NOTE: All LEDs that are supplied with all my lighting kits are tested before being packed. All components are CE and ROSH approved.

WARNING: These LEDs are super-bright, so make sure the lamp is pointing at a wall! DON’T LOOK AT THEM HEAD-ON WHEN THE POWER IS ON!

NOTE: I can supply this kit with the LEDs installed on the PCB and tested. The kit is available in 3 or 9 watts. I will also be designing a 15-watt one shortly.