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Have you ever thought you might like to:

  • Grow, raise, and preserve your own food?
  • Make observations and do amateur investigationsย in earth sciences and biology?
  • Make structures using natural buildingย techniques like cob or straw bale?
  • Build systems for harvesting and cachingย the water and energy that already flow throughย the place you live?

If the idea of combining these and related activitiesย to create a sustainable way of life soundsย appealing, you may be interested in the practiceย known as โ€œpermaculture.โ€

What is Permaculture

The modern practice of permaculture was foundedย by Bill Mollison and David Holmgren in the 1970s asย the practice of designing and building sustainableย human settlements. The permanence of permacultureย lies in its sustainability; itโ€™s a design systemย thatโ€™s based on close observation of nature toย create a way of life that has the same resiliency asย a balanced ecosystem.

Permaculturists, or โ€œpermiesโ€ for short, areย infused with optimism, a fascination with the workingsย of living systems and the land, and a delight inย experimentation and making things.

Permaculture is a generalistโ€™s delight, a practiceย that encourages dabbling in many of the arts andย sciences, and a culture that embraces DIY activitiesย of all kinds: lush gardens, biodynamic farming,ย herbal medicine, wildcrafting, tracking, and usingย earthmoving equipment to build ponds and swales,ย to name a few.

The first step in creating a permaculture designย for a piece of property is to get to know the land inย detail, ideally at different times of day (and night),ย through all four seasons, and in a variety of conditions.ย Creating a hand-drawn map of your propertyย is one way to get to know your land, and your mapย will be a useful tool for developing a plan of action.

SKETCH YOUR LOT

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

  • Large sheet of paper in a sketchbook or on aย clipboard, to carry around your yard sketchingย out the property and recording measurements
  • Pencils
  • Tape measureย the longer the better. You can getย a good 300′ reel tape measure for about $30.ย Most of these are marked with feet and inchesย on one side, and feet and tenths of a foot on theย other side.
  • Marking flags and string (optional) helpful if someย of your measurements will be longer than yourย tape measure
  • Architectโ€™s scale Available in most art supply storesย with the drafting supplies, they look like 3-sidedย rulers. Architectโ€™s scales are usually better thanย engineerโ€™s scales for home-scale mapping.
  • Straightedge or ruler for drawing lines
  • Large, good quality paper for your final map
  • Drawing compass If youโ€™re buying one, get one withย an extender for drawing large arcs.
  • Tracing paper or vellum
  • Masking or drafting tape (optional) if you wantย to do overlays on your finished map
  • Pens, colored pencils, markers, and/or watercolorย pencils or paints for coloring and finishingย your map

To get started, take a walk around your propertyย and notice the shapes of large features such asย buildings and fences.

Look for a couple of good anchor points โ€”ย permanent structures with well-defined edges.ย You should be able to pull the tape measureย straight between these 2 anchor points, and toย several other points in your yard.

Draw a quick sketch of the property, noting theย features you want to include on your map. Just roughย in the shape of your house and other buildings, andย donโ€™t worry about trying to make it to scale.

Draw your sketch as large as your paper allows,ย because youโ€™ll be adding lots of lines and measurementsย that will crowd the page.

Measure the distance between your anchorย points and write it down on the map. Keep the tapeย measure anchored at the first point, and measure toย as many other points or corners as you can reach,ย recording them on your sketch. Then move to theย second anchor point, and do the same.

Be sure to measure to each point twice โ€” onceย from the first anchor point, and once from theย second anchor point โ€” because youโ€™ll be usingย triangulation when you draw your map.

I also like to measure along any edges that areย square, like the sides of a house or building (Figure A),ย because you donโ€™t need to triangulate to each cornerย of your house if itโ€™s really a right-angled box.

NOTE:ย Make sure to pull the tape measure tautย over long distances โ€” if it sags into a big curve,ย the distance you record could be more than aย foot longer than it really is.

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Figure A

 

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Figure B

Youโ€™ll probably find that you canโ€™t reach everyย point on your property from these 2 anchor points.ย Thatโ€™s OK; just pick 2 other points youโ€™ve measured,ย and use them as new anchor points. You can haveย as many new anchor points as you need.

If you need to measure a distance thatโ€™s longerย than your tape (and you canโ€™t use new anchorย points to work around it), tie a string taut betweenย the points to mark a straight line. Measure as far asย you can along the string, and plant a stake flag inย the ground, then measure the next section along theย string. Repeat until you can add up your segmentsย to get the full distance.

Your sketch will have several measuring linesย radiating out from each of the anchor points, andย their measurements. It may get quite messy, butย donโ€™t worry too much about that. If you need toย record too many measurements in a tight space,ย you can always make a larger sketch for that detailย area (Figure B).

MEET THE ARCHITECTโ€™S SCALE

When you have all your measurements writtenย down, itโ€™s time to start working on your actual map.ย First, get familiar with your architectโ€™s scale.

Each edge of the architectโ€™s scale is marked for aย different scale of measurement. For example, on the 3/32ย scale, each tick mark of 3/32″ represents 1 footย on the map. In this way, the scale saves you fromย doing the math to convert all your measurements.

If your measurement is 11′, youโ€™ll use theย distance between 0 and 11 along the edge of theย scale (Figure C). Note that the scale doesnโ€™t startย at zero; the marks to the left of the zero are forย fractions.

So if you want to mark off 12-1/2 feet, you canย start from the 1/2-foot mark to the left of the zero,ย and then measure up to the 12th tick mark. Thisย way the scale doesnโ€™t have a jumble of thousandsย of tiny subdividing tick marks.

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Figure C

You want your map to be as large as possible, yetย still fit on the paper. Look at your longer measurementsย and estimate the length of the longest edgeย of your property; then look at your architectโ€™s scaleย and decide which scale to use so that the longestย edge will fit. Itโ€™s a good practice to have the top ofย your map oriented at least roughly toward north.

DRAW YOUR MAP

Place a dot on the paper to represent your firstย anchor point. Then use the architectโ€™s scale toย measure the distance to the second anchor point,ย and place a dot on the paper for that.

Choose the next point to add to the map (itโ€™s bestย to go in the same order in which you measured, inย case any of these points become anchors later).ย Using the architectโ€™s scale, set your compass to theย distance from the first anchor point to this point.

Center the compass on the dot for the firstย anchor point and strike an arc about where you estimateย the new point will land. Then set the compassย for the distance from the second anchor point toย the new point; center it on the second anchor pointย and strike another arc โ€” the arcs intersect at theย location of the new point (Figure D).

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Figure D

Continue to draw your map, using the compassย and measurements to triangulate each point. Youย might find that your compass wonโ€™t extend to theย longer measurements, even with an extender bar.ย If so, you can make a temporary compass by usingย a long strip of cardboard (try cutting a long stripย off a file folder). Use a pushpin and push it throughย one end of the cardboard to use as the compassย point. Use a second pushpin to make a hole at theย distance you need; then put a pencil lead into thatย hole and use it to strike the arc (Figure E).

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Figure E

Draw everything in with pencil, and then ink overย your lines to make them permanent. Use coloredย pencils, markers, or paints to add color shading toย your map (Figure F).

Figure F
Figure F

Add a map legend with a rendering of the scaleย and a compass rose. Hereโ€™s a quick hack to findย north if you donโ€™t have a property line that runsย north/south: print out the Google map of yourย neighborhood. North is always straight up the page,ย so use a protractor to find the angle between northย and your property line, and then use that sameย angle (flipped over) to draw a line pointing north onย your paper for your compass rose (Figure G).

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Figure G

Since I use my maps to plan changes I want toย make, I like to draw in only permanent structuresย and trees and shrubs that I know will stay, and useย tracing paper or vellum overlays to show movableย structures or garden layouts (Figure H). You canย also scan your map to use it on the computer or toย create paper copies to work with.

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Figure H

Always remember: the map is not the territory!ย Itโ€™s OK to sketch new ideas on paper of course, butย when youโ€™re creating your planning overlays youย should go out onto the property and do some moreย observing and measuring and then use that informationย to draw the features on your planning map.

ADD CONTOURS TO YOUR LOTย WITH AN A-FRAME LEVEL

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

  • Sticks or 1ร—2 lumber, in lengths of 2′ (1) and 5′ (2)
  • Heavy string or twine for lashing sticks together.ย You can also use nuts and bolts, if using lumber.
  • Plumb bob, rock, or other weight on a string
  • Pencil
  • Permanent marker
  • Survey flags
  • Ruler

The A-frame level is a simple tool thatโ€™s been usedย for centuries to create or mark level contours of theย land. They were even used in the construction ofย the pyramids! You can make an A-frame level fromย simple materials that you probably have handy.

Lash the 2 longer sticks together at one endย to form the sides of a long triangle. Then lash theย smaller stick in place as a crossbar, completing theย A shape. Make sure you lash everything tightly; theย parts of the A-frame shouldnโ€™t move in relation toย each other.

Tie one end of the string to the apex of yourย A-frame, and the other end to a weight (like a smallย rock). The weight should hang about 4″ below theย crossbar (Figure I).

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Figure I

Now you need to calibrate the level by makingย marks on the crossbar. Youโ€™ll make 2 temporaryย marks with a pencil, then a permanent mark withย a marker.

Hold the A-frame up so that the string and weightย swing freely and the string falls right next to theย crossbar. Do this on a slight slope, with one legย upslope and the other downslope. Use survey flagsย to carefully mark where each leg of your A-frameย meets the ground. Then use a pencil to make a temporaryย mark where the string falls at the crossbarย (Figure J).

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Figure J

Flip the A-frame so that the legs are reversed โ€”ย the side that was downslope before is now upslope,ย and vice versa. Make sure the legs meet the groundย at the same points you marked with the surveyย flags. Use the pencil to make another temporaryย mark where the string falls at the crossbar now.

Now use your ruler to measure the halfway pointย between the 2 temporary marks on the crossbar, andย mark this halfway point with a permanent marker.

Congratulations, your leveling tool is complete!ย When the string exactly crosses the permanentย mark, it indicates that the feet of the frame are levelย with each other.

The A-frame level is especially good for markingย contours on the land. Youโ€™ve seen contours representedย by lines on a topographical map โ€” theyโ€™reย the lines of equal elevation.

To use your level to mark a contour on a slope,ย set one leg (A) of the level on a starting point andย mark it with a survey flag. Keeping leg A in place,ย swing the other leg (B) around until it also standsย on the ground and the string exactly crosses theย center point.

To do this, youโ€™ll need to move leg B upslope andย downslope until the 2 legs are level, as indicatedย by the string (but donโ€™t move leg A while doing it).ย Mark the position of leg B with a second survey flag.

Now pick up the A-frame and move it along soย that leg A is at the flag you just placed for leg B; useย this as the new pivot point, and again move leg Bย until the string falls along the level point. Mark theย new point at leg B with a third flag. Repeat until youย have your entire contour marked. When you finish,ย the flags mark the contour of the land (Figure K).

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Figure K

You can dig a swale or build a terrace along thisย contour. If youโ€™re placing a fence, you can count theย spaces between the flags and multiply times theย distance between the A-frameโ€™s legs, and youโ€™ll haveย the length of fencing youโ€™ll need to use.

MAKE AND USE A WATER LEVEL

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

  • Yardsticks (2)
  • 1/2″ or 3/4″ clear flexible plastic tubing,ย up to 25′ length
  • Strong tape Clear packing tape is perfect.
  • A friend to help you use the level

While the A-frame level is useful for laying out longย runs of contour, the water level is useful for levelingย the soil, marking points of equal elevation, andย measuring short rises in elevation. The water levelย also works where thereโ€™s no line of sight (aroundย a corner, for example).

Constructing the water level is easy, but youโ€™llย want the help of a friend. First, set up a siphon withย the tubing to get water flowing through it; makeย sure there are no air bubbles. Raise both ends ofย the tubing when itโ€™s full of water, then lower one endย to allow a little water to escape. You want 12″โ€“18″ย of empty tubing at each end, and a solid column ofย water in between.

With your friendโ€™s help, tape the tubing to theย yardsticks. Make sure both yardsticks are orientedย the same way, with the 1″ mark at the top (Figure L).ย You can put the ends of the tubing even with the topย of your yardsticks, but thereโ€™s no need to get themย exact (itโ€™s not the tubing youโ€™ll measure, itโ€™s theย water level inside it). Leave a few inches untaped atย the bottom, so that the stick touches the groundย without interference from the tubing.

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Figure L

Hereโ€™s how the level works: the water in one sideย of the tubing will always be level with the water inย the other side. If you set each yardstick at a point,ย and the water measures the same height in both,ย then the yardsticks are standing on level points. Ifย the measurements differ, subtract one from theย other: the difference is the amount of rise betweenย the 2 points (Figure M). The water will form a concaveย meniscus in the tube; for best results, alwaysย measure along the bottom of this meniscus.

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Figure M

How do you use a water level? Suppose you wantย to construct a wall with a top thatโ€™s exactly level,ย and youโ€™ve already driven posts into the groundย along the path the wall will take. Hold (or tape) oneย of the yardsticks to the first post so that the waterย level is at the desired height of the top of your wall.ย Then take the other yardstick to each of the otherย posts, and mark each post where the water levelย equals that of the first post โ€” thatโ€™s the height ofย your wall. Then you can tie string between eachย point to mark the intended height of the entire wall.