Finally a use for plastic blister pack packaging – pinball machine repair!
14 thoughts on “Finally a use for plastic blister pack packaging – pinball machine repair”
Spadessays:
I’ll never understand why people record things like that on video. One picture and two or three sentences would have sufficed as well.
But the idea is great, it simply never occurred to me that those damned blister packagings can have other uses. I’ll try to cut blades for my electric lawn trimmer from it.
makmaksays:
Great idea. I’ll try it proactively on a couple of pinball plastics that are cracked but not yet split. Thanks for posting.
justin.gasal.myopenid.comsays:
Blister packs work great as mixing trays for epoxy, bondo, and other 2-part resins.
They are also good to hot-glue or double-stick tape small parts onto for painting.
hbettssays:
I would prefer to use model glue to bind plastic together. You just have to be careful to clean it up immediately if you get any excess otherwise it gets ugly fast. But, the idea of the blister packing (aka titanium based plastics) is a great one.
Phillip Torronesays:
@Spades – feel free to send along your “one picture and two or three sentence” how-tos and tips.
Alan Parekhsays:
Another great use for that indestructible packaging is for makeshift CNC machine dust collection shrouds. It holds up very well against the vacuum, allows the work to be seen and won’t damage the router bit if it comes into contact with it by accident.
Academiciansays:
Nice idea, but I think you might have been unlucky with the brand of superglue/crazy glue you chose. Most it seems these days are low-fuming ones, but it looks like yours did. You can buy fluid to release your fingers and this can be used to remove some of the “misting” if you are careful. Nail polish remover will NOT work once the glue has hardened. the only problem is that it is quite an aggressive solvent and can attack some plastics and/or remove the printing from them.
What might be easier in future would be to laminate them in a lamintor possibly? It might be best to try this out on an old bit of platic first if possible, as some laminators will not let the rollers move enough to laminate something rigid and there is always the possibility of the plastic being an exceptionally low-melting point one like a styrene-based polymer, but this is unlikely in a pinball machine as they really are not suited for such environments. So unless you are unlucky, running them through a laminator might be the best option?
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I’ll never understand why people record things like that on video. One picture and two or three sentences would have sufficed as well.
But the idea is great, it simply never occurred to me that those damned blister packagings can have other uses. I’ll try to cut blades for my electric lawn trimmer from it.
Great idea. I’ll try it proactively on a couple of pinball plastics that are cracked but not yet split. Thanks for posting.
Blister packs work great as mixing trays for epoxy, bondo, and other 2-part resins.
They are also good to hot-glue or double-stick tape small parts onto for painting.
I would prefer to use model glue to bind plastic together. You just have to be careful to clean it up immediately if you get any excess otherwise it gets ugly fast. But, the idea of the blister packing (aka titanium based plastics) is a great one.
@Spades – feel free to send along your “one picture and two or three sentence” how-tos and tips.
Another great use for that indestructible packaging is for makeshift CNC machine dust collection shrouds. It holds up very well against the vacuum, allows the work to be seen and won’t damage the router bit if it comes into contact with it by accident.
Nice idea, but I think you might have been unlucky with the brand of superglue/crazy glue you chose. Most it seems these days are low-fuming ones, but it looks like yours did. You can buy fluid to release your fingers and this can be used to remove some of the “misting” if you are careful. Nail polish remover will NOT work once the glue has hardened. the only problem is that it is quite an aggressive solvent and can attack some plastics and/or remove the printing from them.
What might be easier in future would be to laminate them in a lamintor possibly? It might be best to try this out on an old bit of platic first if possible, as some laminators will not let the rollers move enough to laminate something rigid and there is always the possibility of the plastic being an exceptionally low-melting point one like a styrene-based polymer, but this is unlikely in a pinball machine as they really are not suited for such environments. So unless you are unlucky, running them through a laminator might be the best option?