Arduino Data-Logging Shield Kit

• Insert the resistor with color bands Brown-Black-Orange into the location marked R5.
• Resistors are not polarized, so it does not matter which direction you insert them in.
• Turn the board over, and then solder the leads.

Make your soldering life easier by trimming the leads of the components after you solder them in.

• In locations R3 and R4, insert the two resistors with the color bands Brown-Black-Red.
• Turn the board over, and solder the resistors in. Then clip the leads.

• The SD card holder has two humps that snap it into place on the circuit board.
• You should be able to feel it fit into two grooves and sit snugly on the surface.
• On the sides are 4 tabs. Solder these tabs to the circuit board by first heating up the tabs, and then applying solder. The holder shouldn't move once it's been soldered in.
• Now all you need to do is solder the leftmost 7 tabs to the circuit board. It is unnecessary to solder the remaining three.

• In locations R1 and R2, insert the two resistors with the color code Red-Red-Red.
• Solder these two resistors in, and then clip the leads.

• The two small, yellow ceramic capacitors are not polarized, so it does not matter which direction you insert them.
• Insert them into locations C2 and C3.
• Solder them in, and then clip the leads.

• Electrolytic capacitors are polarized, so it is important to insert them properly.
• The longer lead is the "+" lead, so make sure you enter this lead into the hole marked with the "+.
• Insert them into locations C1 and C4. Solder them in, and then clip the leads.

• Insert the 3.3V Regulator.
• In location IC1, insert the regulator with its flat end matched up with the flat side of the silk-screened image on the circuit board.
• Solder the leads in, and then clip them.

• The socket has a notch on one end. This notch must match the one in the picture silk-screened onto the circuit board.
• Make sure the socket is flush with the circuit board when you turn it over to solder.
• Once the socket is soldered in, you can insert the IC into the socket.

• The longer chip will be inserted into location IC3 without a socket. It is important to make sure that the end of the chip with the notch matches up with the the notch on the silk-screened image.
• Turn the board over and solder the chip into the circuit board.

• Deposit a bit of solder on the center tab of the location marked BAT.
• Now you can insert the metal battery holder and solder it in.

• The reset button is inserted into the location marked RESET.
• Press the button all the way into the circuit board. Turn the board over and solder it in.

• In location LED1, insert the green LED. The longer lead of the LED should be inserted into the hole marked "+" on the circuit board.
• In location LED2, insert the red LED. Just as with the green LED, insert the longer lead of the LED into the hole marked with the "+".

• In location Q1, insert the small metal cylinder. The crystal is not polarized, so you can insert it in any direction.
• Solder it in, and then clip the leads.

From the 36-pin header, clip two 8-pin and two 6-pin headers.

• Insert the longer end of the headers into the female headers on the Arduino.
• Place the shield on top of the the shorter leads of the headers.
• Solder every pin of the male headers, and you will be finished.

• Insert the included coin-cell battery, and you are finished.
• You can remove the shield from the Arduino, or keep it attached to the Arduino.