Easy Knockdown Occasional Table That Assembles In Seconds

Using the layout diagram shown here and the parts drawings in Steps 1–3, cut out all the parts except for the slots and holes.

Sand all edges smooth. Any edge voids can be plugged with a no-shrink wood filler. (Bondo also works.)

Cut only the center half-lap slots in the table leg cross-pieces to match the plywood thickness, which should measure ½”. (Use a piece of your plywood scrap to check, fit, and widen the slots as necessary by sanding the edges with a thin backing block.)

Assemble the 2 leg cross-pieces. Mark one of the interior corners A and B as shown here. You’ll be marking other parts so that the table can be assembled the same way every time.

Cut the slots in the 4 box panels and adjust slot width using the plywood scrap. Chamfer or round-over the 2 long edges on the better face of each box panel.

Lay out the 4 box panels with all chamfered edges down, making sure all panel ends opposite the slotted ends are aligned.

Keeping the panel long edges tight together, drill and install 2 hinges on each of the 3 long-edge joints, each hinge located 3″ from the panel ends. A center punch will help locate all drilled holes accurately.

Fold the box panels inward to form a square, and slide this box down onto the assembled legs, placing the end panel that has only one edge hinged over the A leg. Mark that panel A at both top and bottom ends. Make sure the unhinged gap is the same width as the hinged gaps.

Trace the 4 panel slots onto the legs.

Cut the slots (labeled X on the layout and legs drawing), and sand them to fit. Final fit of all slots should be snug yet easy to disassemble.

Cut 4 dowels to the drawing, and round the ends with sandpaper. Mount them onto the square spacer as shown. Countersink the screws ⅛” for better penetration.

Using the spacer/dowel assembly and a small square, and keeping each side of the spacer centered on its respective box panel, mark with 2 short lines the location of each dowel on the interior of the box panel. For the A box panel, mark that spacer/dowel edge as A also.

In the center of each set of these dowel marks, on each box-panel end, and ¾” from the top edge, drill a ½”-diameter hole (see the box side drawing).

Mount the box panel spacer assembly onto the bottom center of the tabletop with four ¾” screws, countersinking ⅛” for better penetration. For more strength, add wood glue.

Finish the surfaces of all parts with at least 2 clear coats, fine-sanding between coats. (You might elect to stain surfaces to match existing furniture before clear-coating.)

Mask and fill any exposed holes in the plywood with wood filler or Bondo, then opaque-paint all exposed plywood edges.

To prevent skidding, you could add ½”-diameter rubber bumpers to the bottom ends of the table legs.

To assemble, place the tabletop upside-down. Wrap the box panels onto the spacer and dowels, matching the As.

Put the leg crosspieces together (matching As and Bs) and slide them down into the box panel slots, again matching the As.

Use your knockdown table as an auxiliary end table or bedside table, an occasional children’s dining table, or a temporary game table. Then knock it down for storage in seconds!