We are all makers
The advent of the always-on internet connection has transformed modern computing. While you’re away from the keyboard, your software can automatically update itself, fixing bugs and patching security flaws. Or automatically back up data from your hard drive to a remote server so that, in the event of disaster, you still have a record of even your most recent work. Distributed computing applications like [email protected] and [email protected] allow you to contribute your computer’s processing power, while you’re not using it, to solving computation-intensive problems like identifying extraterrestrial transmissions and understanding complex biomolecules. There’s all kinds of good stuff your computer can do with that internet connection, while you’re away.
It can also, of course, get into lots of trouble. Backdoors, bot-nets, spyware—the list goes on. And while the good guys may allow you to configure their off-hours internet usage in software, and will probably respect your choices, the bad guys won’t.
If you want to be double-dog sure, here’s a simple, fool-proof answer: a hardware kill switch. Put one on the wired connection between your computer and router and use it to unambiguously isolate that computer from the internet whenever you want. Or put it between your router (wireless or otherwise) and your ISP hardware to control the connection for the entire house. Sure, you could just unplug the cable, but that’s hard on the connectors, and the switch is faster to use and neater-looking, to boot.
And it couldn’t be much easier to build. We’ll show you how to build an unobtrusive basic Internet Kill Switch, and then an over-the-top “dramatic version” that’s a bit more fun to make and use.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9Etvk5CnqM&w=600&h=338]
To use, mount the switch box using the bundled screws or double-sided adhesive foam. Connect your computer (or router) to one side of the switch, and your router (or ISP equipment) to the other. Click! Goodnight.
Way Cool!
Seriously?
How about an auto wifi kill switch? Long story behind this Q, but basically my computer is on high speed connection BUT it’s been/is being “bugged” via wifi either by a piggy-back on someone around me or a hidden modem somewhere near. Long, 10 year, 5 different houses/apartments later, and still being surveilled by a group of VERY, upsettingly adept people who are pros. ANY ideas would be helpful.
RJ-45 wall jack or just a normal rj-45
How about a pressure switch under your seat so the (your) internet is up only when your but is down?
Or- wire it up the kill switch box to a 120V relay, then plug the relay’s coil (using a re-purposed power cord) into a SensorPlug ($15)- it will automatically turn it off when it no longer sees motion. I’d put an over-ride switch on the box that sits on your desk so you can decide to keep it on for a long download or when streaming music – BUT wire a self blinking LED like these http://tinyurl.com/ku66szs that you can easily power from a re-purposed USB cable. This will remind you that you have over-ridden your primary auto-off feature.
Dang it! Now I have another project on my list.
Seems like a good idea for a kit for MakerShed, no?
That is great. Analog living takes charge :-)
I suggest that you test the wiring by plugging it into a system before installing the switch. Build a little, test a little, learn a lot.
I’ve forwarded this to our office IT manager so he can get installing one asap :)
I didn’t like the white jacks, and it didn’t feel old school enough. I think I’ve made some improvements:
https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1173608_10101649076549319_143268404_n.jpg
Uh… ok, but why not just put your internet on a power strip and just turn off the power?
Because that is to easy and not fun.
ニクソン オメガ 時計 種類 http://www.10ub.com/
Since both orange and green are used for RX and TX depending on whether you use T568A or T568B, would it not be prudent to use a DPDT switch to kill both RX and TX to prevent either up- or download?
Or you can get the one i use here..
http://www.safeoff.com
Prevent Identity Theft
TURN OFF YOUR INTERNET WHEN YOU TURN OFF YOUR COMPUTER
http://www.safeoff.com
This works great for me, it was cheap..
I’ve got my router, hub and cell antenna plugged into a single power strip. I want it disabled, it’s disabled. Each computer is on its own power switch as well. Switching them off at the wall isn’t the best thing for components, but in an emergency it makes all the difference.
I’ve been using a kill switch since I first got on broadband, but instead of building one I just use an A/B switch. A=internet B=null. Simple, quick and serves the purpose. You can get a mini push button switch for RJ-45 cables for less than 5 bucks, shipped, or one with a knob for $10-15.
My thought is that while firewalls and good security are vital, completely disconnecting from the internet is the only true way to prevent incursions when you are not going to be using it for a while. You can turn off your computer or router to accomplish the same, but both take time to reboot. Switches, like the project depicted here or one purchased from the store, are virtually instantaneous and are a much better fit with my computer lifestyle.
I simply turn off my cable modem
That also prevents potential cable modem hacking. However, if the modem also provides VOIP service, that’s not possible.
Just FYI, on certain cables you’ll find that the striped orange wire is the one to solder. I’ve found most use orange, but there are a few that use the striped. No idea why? If anyone has info on that, it would be appreciated.
Just seen this online. Internet kill switch,
I ordered two. http://www.ebay.com/itm/251763776618?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
2 Ports Network Switch Splitter Selector Hub 2-In 1-Out or 1-In 2-Out 100M MT-RJ45-2M – $6.58
https://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Network-Splitter-Selector-MT-RJ45-2M/dp/B00DRG1SLO
Just switch to the empty input port. I don’t have one myself since I use gigabit ethernet which this is not to be used for, only 10/100.
Just wondering is there any kind of program that could mess up wifi signal in my room for sometime. People are always coming over in my room apparently i got good signals
You can with a signal jammer but it’s not very legal as it can disrupt other signals within a very large radius. However most routers have the option to allow allow only a specific set of MAC addresses to connect to them. Since every computer has a unique MAC address (actually every ethernet adapter) with some tinkering and googling you should be able to make it so only you and anyone you specify be able to have access to your wi-fi.
Thanks for this. My previous cable modem had one built in, but not my new one. After hearing about Comcast’s plans to cap monthly usage, my recent introduction to watching Twitch regularly and using GlassWire to keep track of my bandwidth (seeing how much is going down the drain with “idle” usage on browsers, etc), I figured I should shut off my internet while away, even if I don’t shut my PC down completely.
I am attempting to make this, but since RS has closed so much of its operations, I am finding it difficult to find all of the parts. I was able to get most of it from their site, but the links to the products they have listed no longer work. I tried the product numbers, nope. Even looking for the item name they have is most of the time a bust. My biggest issues is the punch down jacks. RS doesn’t even seem to think they exist! I have tried all sorts of different name types and descriptions. Anyone have a clue?
As a network engineer, I have a few problems with this.
1) no debouncing, so every time you use it, you’re putting a small spike into the Ethernet interfaces. You’ll probably be “getting away with it”, but it’s not great for your gear. If it’s a $20 switch, maybe you don’t care, but don’t do this on an enterprise grade network.
2) More seriously, you’re only disabling one half of one pair, causing at best a half-link situation. On your own home network you’re only confusing things for yourself, but don’t do this on an enterprise network unless you really want to irritate IT.
To improve this I’d use a single throw four pole switch (they exist) to disconnect pins 1,2,3,6 although with gigabit all eight should be ideally interrupted. And debouncing would be nice, although it’d have to tolerate Ethernet’s 48V.
How would you suggest handling the voltage issues? How well would this integrate into a setup that went ISP modem -> kill switch -> raspberry pi VPN/TOR –> raspberry pi IPS/IDS -> wlan router?
I like the way you think, you sound like you really know your stuff.
So, I have an interesting question. I have two LTE routers at home with the same IP that go to different ISPs. All my gear is statically assigned since there are a couple of NASes, 3 Kodi boxes, remote access and other do-dahs. The reason for this is that I get uncapped(albeit slow 12mbps) on the one for 19 hours a day and the other router is for the 5 hours(not as slow 20-40mbps).
I am tired of switching the routers on and off all the time so I would like to build something like this to switch the two networks. I know there are devices you can buy online that do this but I would prefer to build it since shipping to South Africa is very touch and go…mostly go. Would you happen to know if there are any plans/schematics out there on the interwebz to do this?
Also, I am not sure if I am just googling wrong but if this sort of situation is doable with pfsense or preferably an Edgerouter(ER-X non-SFP is the only one I can afford) I would appreciate any sort of pointing in the right direction.
The “right” way to do it would be to have a router between your ISP routers and your LAN. If you built a multiple network interface linux box out of a small form factor PC for the router it would then be easier to script a solution by changing your routing table costs or setting the appropriate interface up/down at the appropriate time. Ars Technica had an article about using a small PC as a router a while back, might look there for ideas.
Get one here – http://www.ebay.com/itm/253094394049?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Okay, here’s a better way to do this: buy a 5-port Gig ethernet switch, TP-link or such, and then cut it’s power when you want to interrupt the network without eventually spiking your gear to death. Not very DIY I know, but this is one of those hacks that just makes me cringe. But what do I know, I just do this for a living…
to solve this problem I purchased a 4′ extension cord, a programmable 2 plug control, and a 9″ x 6″ X 3.8 ” locking thermostat control guard. Modem and router plugged into control. Times set on control for all to be “killed”. Box mounted to wall and locked. So no Wifi or ethernet at night when my kids are supposed to be asleep. All for less than $40 from Amazon.
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