Last November the world met a precious little creature officially known as the Child, in the new TV series The Mandalorian. The internet instantly named him Baby Yoda. I was already planning to do more Star Wars macramé (I’d previously made an R2-D2, lightsaber, and Death Star) and Baby Yoda was so cute I just had to try.

Seven months later and I’ve made over 50 macramé dolls of him, become a Facebook moderator on a fan page, and even founded my own FB group chronicling my mini Baby Yodas.

My first design was based on the show, but with a sparkly coat. Here’s how I made him.

Project Steps


First you’ll tie the structural threads, then you’ll tie rows of knots onto these, following the chart above. Using standard embroidery thread, this pattern makes a Baby Yoda about 4cm tall; use bigger yarn for bigger babies.


Choose your 5 colors. I used 6-strand embroidery floss in green, and sparkly metallic 3-ply crochet yarn in black, white, gold, and copper.

Measure four 50cm lengths of green thread and the same in gold. Bend in the middle, and tie them together with a simple overhand loop.

Tie another overhand knot in the middle and splay out the threads: 4 green then 8 gold then 4 green. These are the structural threads. They’re mostly unseen, being the threads that everything else is tied around .


You’ll tie a few hundred of these:

Cross the green thread over the gold.

Loop round the back and over the top.

Repeat, running the free end under first loop.

Pull tight to finish.


Leave at least 5cm green thread on both ends of the 16-knot rows (rows 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, and 21). These will become part of baby’s ears.

Row 1: In green, make the double half hitch knot over every structural thread. This row is 16 knots long. Trim ends to 5cm or longer.

Row 2: Miss out the first structural thread, and make 14 knots in green. Trim short (1cm–2cm).

Row 3: Miss out 2 more structural threads, make a row 10 knots long, and trim short.

Row 4: Miss out 2 more structural threads, make a row 6 knots long in green, and trim short.
Rows 5–16: Now you’ll repeat rows 1–4 three more times. Begin row 5 just like row 1, tying onto the first structural thread in green. The chart shows the rows in a schematic way; really you’re tying this row snug against all the previous rows. This creates the curvature of the head.

As you work through row 5, tuck the ends of the previous rows behind the emerging fabric. Keep following the pattern until you’ve completed row 16.

Row 17: It’s time to start the eyes: tie on white and black. Working L–R, tie 4 knots in green, 1 black, 1 white, 4 green, 1 black, 1 white, 4 green.

Row 18: Miss out first structural thread and tie on 2 green knots, 4 black, 2 green, 4 black, 2 green.

Row 19: Miss 2 more structural threads and tie 1 green, 2 black, 4 green, 2 black, 1 green. The eyes are complete.

Row 20: Miss 2 more structural, tie 6 green knots.

Row 21: Make the mouth: 6 green, 1 black, 2 green — then knot 2 black on row 22 — 1 black back on row 21, then 6 green. The mouth looks better when it’s continuous like this.

Row 22: Miss 1 structural thread, tie 6 green, miss the 2 black you just did, tie 6 more green.

Row 23: Miss 2 more structural threads, tie 10 green knots.

Row 24: Miss 2 more structural threads, tie 6 green knots. The head is complete.

Tie structural threads 1 and 2 front to back, and tie 15 and 16 the same way.



Those long ends from your 16-knot rows will now serve as structural threads for the ear. Separate them into 3 from the front of the head, and 3 from the back. For row 1 of the ear, tie 5 green knots, from bottom to top, alternating like so: 1 back, 2 front, 3 back, 4 front, 5 and 6 together.

Tie row 2 the same way, but in the reverse direction. Row 3 changes direction again, 4 knots, this time gathering structural threads 4, 5, and 6 inside the final double half hitch knot at the top. Row 4, again changes direction. Keep knotting back and forth, taking in a structural thread each time you reach the top of the ear. Eventually all will be gathered inside your final knot. The ear is done.

Trim off the excess thread on the end of the ear. Repeat for the second ear.


Untie the overhand knots in the structural threads.

Row 25: Starting at the front, use 4 gold threads together, knotting over 2 structural threads at a time. Knot all the way around the base of the head; the last knot will be gold tied around itself. Leave these long; they’re now structural threads!

Row 26: Use 2 copper threads together, knotting over 2 structural threads, to knot the first copper row on the body, starting and ending in the center of the back. Leave long, at least 5cm.



Plait the green structural threads 1–3 to make an arm, long enough to reach up to the eye and back to the shoulder. Tie the end of the arm back to the shoulder, using the loose fourth green structural thread to pull the end of the plait inside the body. For the second arm, repeat on the opposite side.

Trim excess green length from below the shoulders. Tuck the loose green ends inside the head. Then tie the bases of the arms together, between the front and back structural threads.



Row 27: Begin the second row of copper in the middle of the back, 2 threads together tied over 2 structural threads. Continue all the way round, beneath the arms, 15 total knots.

Row 28: Third row of copper, 17 knots.

Row 29: Fourth row of copper; miss out two structural threads at the beginning and end of the row, 14 knots. Leave long to become new structural threads.


Row 30: Starting front and center, begin the first row of the base, using 2 gold threads, knotting around 2 structural threads, 21 knots.

Row 31: Tie the second row on the base, knotting around 4 structural threads.

Row 32: Tie the third row, knotting around 8 structural threads.

Trim threads and poke them inside the body to make a flat base.


Knot copper thread around the arm 8 times. You can knot in the same direction if you want, or alternate directions to get a straight ridge on one side of the arm. Tie the copper ends to the body and poke the thread inside the body.

Make the second sleeve the same as the first. It’s finished!



Baby Yoda makes a keen gift for fellow Mando nerds. You can make different sizes simply by varying the thread (or yarn) size. Variations on my first design involve different colors, thread thicknesses, expressions on his little face, and naked baby versions where you can see his little feet.

I’ve also made several macramé creatures that Baby Yoda has been compared to. Most similar is the Toy Story alien, much like Baby Yoda but with upturned ears, three eyes, and antenna. Pikachu and Stitch also have very similar body designs. The Minion Stewart is much simpler. See them all on Instagram and Facebook .

Take care of this little one. Or maybe, it’ll take care of you.