This article appeared in Make: Vol 81. Subscribe today for more robot projects and tips.

On January 24, 1843, the editors of the Brooklyn Evening Star were caught up in whirl of excitement about an invention created by one of their own readers, Mrs. Sarah P. Mather. “The world,” exclaimed the newspaper article, “is indebted to this inventor, who is not only American, but an American Lady!” A bit further on, the writer waxes even more effusively: “The fair inventress says to old Neptune and is obeyed: Ground your Trident old despot of three fifths of our World! Lay open your dark, hidden dominions!” (All of the italic words and exclamation points were in the original article.)

Wow! The underwater telescope that Mrs. Mather invented — better known today as an aquascope — certainly caught the attention of the New York press. Now, whether it truly merits that sort of acclaim or not lies in the eye of the evaluator, but after building a replica, I found Mather’s aquascope an easy device to make and a fun one to use. The aquascope permits people on boats, docks, or piers to look beneath the surface of the water to get a better view of what is going on below. According to Mather’s patent application, the underwater telescope “can be used for various purposes, such as the examination of the hulls of vessels, to examine or discover objects under water, for fishing, blasting rocks to clear channels” and so on.

As John Adie, Esq., wrote in an 1850 magazine article about the then-newfangled underwater telescopes, “The reason why we so seldom see the bottom of the sea or a lake is due to the irregular refractions given to the rays in passing out of the water into the air, caused by the constant ripple of the water where refraction takes place.”

Figure A

Mather’s aquascope punches through the optically unfriendly water surface, bypassing glare or surface refraction and allowing a clear picture of what goes on below. Mather’s patent application shows how her aquascope had a pair of unique innovations over previous scopes (Figure A). First, Mather outfitted her device with a lamp that could be lowered into the water along with the aquascope. This made it possible for the device to be used at night. Second, Mather’s aquascope incorporated an angled mirror that gave the device the ability to look not just down but also sideways in the water, which was very helpful for inspecting ship hulls, piers, and so forth.

When Mather lived, it was unusual for a woman to obtain a patent on an invention and then attempt to market the device. But this she did, and that’s about all we know of Sarah Mather. The records are sketchy, but we do know she was born Sarah Porter Stinson or Stimson around 1796 and died in New York City in 1868. In 1819 she married Harlow Mather, a distant cousin of the famous Puritan clergyman Cotton Mather, and they had several daughters, including Olive M. Devoe who in 1868 petitioned Congress for money to test her invention of a “submarine illuminator,” building on her mother’s work. When not inventing, Mrs. Mather was involved in the publishing of poetry, and near the end of her life she raised money for the Union Home and School for New York children of soldiers killed in the Civil War. Olive was the director and principal.

The aquascope or underwater telescope

This project is fairly simple, and you can change the dimensions to suit your needs. This aquascope uses a 3-inch-diameter, 2½-foot long viewing tube, but you can change the length and diameter if you want a wider or deeper view. Because the air inside the scope makes it buoyant, you may want to add weight to the bottom to make it easier to push it down into the water. At the bottom end of the tube is a rotatable mirror which can be adjusted to provide a straight-through view to the bottom, a 90-degree view to the side, or anything in between.

Making the Mather aquascope

Before you assemble anything, cut these pieces to the sizes described in the materials list: the PVC tube, the clear plastic tube, the round piece of wood, and the round piece of acrylic plastic.

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Project Steps

1. Notch the tube

Figure B

With a saw, cut a notch for your nose in the top of the 3″ PVC tube (Figure B). Smooth the surface with sandpaper because you will press your face against the tube when you use it.

2. Line up the holes

Use the electric drill to drill two 3/8″-diameter holes across from one another in the center of the clear plastic tube, 2″ from bottom. Once the first hole is drilled, insert the 3/8″ bolt and mark the spot directly across from the first hole with a marker, then drill the second hole. The holes should line up directly across the tube from one another — in other words, they should be diametrically opposed — and the bolt should be perpendicular to the interior surface of the tube.

TIP: Wrap a piece of masking tape around the tube before you drill, and mark the spot you wish to drill with a marker. This will make it easier to start and end drilling the hole without slipping.

3. Begin the mirror assembly

Glue the mirror to the wood backing piece.

4. Mirror assembly continued

Insert the bolt into the plastic loop clamps. Fasten the clamps to the wood backing piece with the wood screws. When you insert the bolt and tighten the screws, the clamps should hold the bolt securely. If the bolt rotates, remove the screws and wrap it in tape so the clamps have a better grip. Next, remove the bolt from the clamps.

5. Mount the bolt

Figure C

Place a washer on the bolt, and then an O-ring. Now, thread the bolt through one hole in the clear plastic tube, then through the loop clamps, then through the opposite hole in the clear tube. Attach the second O-ring, the second washer, and the wing nut (Figures C and D). Using the wrench, tighten the nut to seal the O-rings against the outside of the clear tube.

Figure D

6. Seal it up

Figure E

Once the mirror is in place, use the silicone sealant to glue the 3″ clear acrylic disk to the bottom end of the clear acrylic tube (Figure E). I tied mine on tight until the sealant dried.

7. Apply adhesive

Check the fit between the clear plastic tube and the interior of the PVC tube. Apply a layer or two of duct tape to the upper edge of the clear tube if the fit is not tight.

Figure F

Apply silicone adhesive/sealant to the upper 1″ of the clear tube (or its duct tape) and then insert it 3″ deep into end of the PVC tube. I also ran a bead of sealant all around the joint (Figure F). Let the silicone cure according to label directions. Before the sealant dries, rotate the clear tube so the mirror points 180 degrees opposite the nose notch in the PVC tube (or the angle of your choice).

8. Affix the light

Use the silicone to attach the waterproof light to the side of the PVC tube so that it shines in the direction that the mirror faces.

9. Wait and adjust

Let all the glue and sealant joints dry. With your wrench, adjust the angle of the mirror to 45 degrees to look sideways.

10. Test it

Test the aquascope for leaks. If it leaks, apply additional sealant, and check the fit of the O-rings.

Using the aquascope

Like Mather’s original aquascope, this project allows the user to make nighttime observations and to look 90 degrees to the side of scope. But it’s also adjustable so you can look in other directions.
• To look 90 degrees to the side, keep the mirror at a 45-degree angle.
• To look straight down, position the mirror vertically, so you can see past it, straight down through the clear bottom disc, and then tighten the bolts.
• Whichever angle you look, you could add more LED lights pointed in that direction.

All photos by William Gurstelle. This article appeared in Make: Vol 81. Subscribe today for more robot projects and tips.